I have read somewhere there is a spring in the valve body. I think you have to replace that. I will try to find that link.

Okay I have my valve body complete removed and cleaned. I had posted last night about a plastic washer (spacer) that looked broke. It was not broke but factory cut to keep the plunger within a area.
a1jatt I am going to reassemble, but very slowly so if you can remember that link about which spring to change it would be very helpful since i have the valve body broke down.
I just tried to post pictures but they are too big. I will fix and try again

If it’s the pressure regulator spring you are referring to, it’s for and only fits the 722.6 transmissions.

You have some balls tearing into that valve body, if you have problem or question let me know.

ok found it, here it is

http://transmission.articles.mbz.org/k1/

here is the main page with some more info , at bottom there are links to some pdf files, in case you disasseble the tranny and then cant figure out how to put together, these pds will help you.
http://transmission.articles.mbz.org/

OK, so my cable's fixed, but still no change in the way she shifts.

mghaz2.6, have you found anything further yet? How far does your control pressure valve plunger (throttle valve) stick out of the valve body? Is it an easy job to split the valve body and reassemble?

if you are talking about just removing the valve body fromt the tranny and put it back on. then yes its not too hard. its only 8-10 bolts. the only thing you will have to be carefull about it there are two tiny parts that will fall off when you will take it apart. you have to know where they go. one is kind is strainer/ filter and second is small platic check valve.

So it doesn't look like a big job to remove the valve body - I'll give it a go probably at the weekend when I have some more time.

What would you guys recommend?
A. remove, split, clean and re-install the existing valve body
OR
B. remove and buy a new/rebuilt valve body and just install this?

For either option, are there any adjustments/fine tuning which has to be done afterwards or is the valve body fixed?

If I choose option A, what should I look out for? In other words, how will I know what's wrong, if anything? I guess this only comes from experience, so can anyone help with some please

Must the valve body bolts be torqued?

Don't bother with your valve body it isn't the problem. opening it up was educational but a waste of time. Our problem lies elsewhere? I will have an answer for this problem. Since i removed my valve body (twice now) i bought a set of springs from superiortransmission.com part# K722A-G. I am gonna rebuild the valve body tonight. The cure will be posted once i refill trans and test drive. Hopefully tonight because i am gonna work on this all night if i have too.

The most common causes of early / stacked up shifts in a 722.3, 4 and 5 transmission are

Valve body:
A stuck shift control pressure valve and or a stuck pressure control valve `or seized shift valves.

Governor
A seized governor in its bore.

The wrong governor pressure (valve body)

Low working pressure can cause early shifts, but then the transmission will slip.

A pressure reading will pin point the cause.

It's the govenor causing my problems. I pulled it out yesterday to find the springs were not intact. I am still trying to find all the metel throughout my trans. The quick shifts are do to the low pressure. Is this a dealer only item? i have seached all over the web with no luck, Price range?

Check the governors driven and drive gear for any damage and debris. Something failed to cause that damage. You have to remove the rear valve body to clean the governor’s screens, they must be loaded with metal, also inspect the rear pump check valve it has been know to come apart and cause damage to the governor gears. Can you post a picture of the governor? I am updating my website I have tons of pictures.rear valve body




The governor is matched to the engine size, tire size and differential ratio. When you call give them the ink stamp number on the governor to insure you get the right one

Call 1800 776 4433

hey that might be my problem. i had broken gear of the governer. i just replaced that and ever since everything looks good. i could not find anything else wrong. can you guide me how to check what caused that ? i mean how do i know where check valve and or anything else that might have caused it? or what might be wrong with them??

i need help removing my governor (1986 300e 722.320 transmission) i removed the cover on the drivers side and the microfiche shows that there is a nut on the passenger side that needs to be loosened then the shaft turned with a screwdriver. only problem---i cant find it another manual i found online shows a retaining clip but that is for a later model vehicle. did you have the pan off the tranny when you removed the governer what did it take can you help also i am hoping that somewhere somehow there exists a better service manual for my transmission than these 2nd hand microfiche i bought they are a nightmare if anyone knows of anything print electronic whatever i need it MIKE

what i did was i went to dealership and confused them really good , i said i am looking for a governer part. then they printed out exploded diagram and gave it to me.

i need help removing my governor (1986 300e 722.320 transmission)

The release for the governor is on the rear pump; look at page 50, fig. 42 of your link. They call it the axial retainer nut. Remove the 10mm nut and turn the screw CCW to release the governor, turn it CW when you install it, the slot in the screw should be in a horizontal position; locked.