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#1
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While doing some major work on my car, I thought I would replace the overflow tank cap. The new one was really tight. So tight, it loosed the crimped metal top of my overflow tank. This is now bubbling and seeping when the car is hot and it's running 5 degrees hotter than it did before. This is a sneaky problem, and I don't see any practical, permanent way to fix it short of getting a new bottle (which I did, $60).
Maybe I should have left well enough alone!
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86 560SL With homebrew first gear start! 85 380SL Daily Driver Project http://juliepalooza.8m.com/sl/mercedes.htm |
#2
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A mechanic told me this trick. Get an old radiator hose (I used a rolled up towel). Start your car. Let it warm up. At idle, stick the hose gently into the fan. If it stops easily, it's bad. BE CAREFUL if you ty this.
Mine stopped VERY EASILY & took about 30 seconds to come back up to speed. I put a new one on (4 bolts) and my problem is solved (temp was creeping up when I stopped at 3 or 4 red lights in a row). |
#3
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The clutch in my vehicle is really goofy. When cold, it stiffens up fairly well. When hot, it free-wheels very easily. I just received a new fan clutch yesterday from Phil at Fastlane (best price around). I'm going to put it in this weekend. The V12 ran VERY hot last summer. I swear you could melt lead on the intake manifold. This should bring it down to acceptable levels.
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1995 S600, 1 of 618 (sold) "Speed is just a question of money...how fast you wanna go?" LONG LIVE THE W140! Visit my Web Page at www.v12uberalles.com |
#4
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First of all, sorry. The car is a 190e 2.6 1990.
I have read on another forum, that an indivdual injected some sort of silicon into the clutch to bring it back to life. I have no idea as to the inner workings of the fan clutch. But jamming a towel into the fan seems dangerous. Im just worried that it wont stop and suck in the towel with my hand attached to it. ???? thx |
#5
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I have replenished my clutch twice now, but the correct silicon fluid should be used, 10,000CST at a minimum. If it's not been filled with silicon it's a no go!
Temperature shouldn't make much difference to the viscosity - if it's got silicon in. But the fluid will take a little while to return to chamber one after being driven for a while, once in chamber 1 it should feel stiff again. Here's the test: 1. Do the fan blades resist turning after the cars sat for 15 minutes or so? 2. Do you hear a 'roar' from the engine at start 3. Can you hear a roar when the fan cuts in at around 90dec water temp? If no to any of the above then it's either been refilled with incorrect fluid or the fluid has leaked away again. Remember, why did it need refilling - I can tell you - the poxy thing's worn out! That's why I've had to refill mine twice. Only solution is to buy a new one. Talking of buying.... Does any of you friendly US guys want to do me a favor and find out the price for a Sachs Part No:2100 015 031 is from the US Would be REALLY appreciated. Cheers Lea
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'93 R129 500SL-32 '89 190E 2.6 - sold in 2002 http://antron.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/i...nature/Sig.jpg Last edited by LeaUK; 04-21-2005 at 03:38 PM. |
#6
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366 us for the fan clutch
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#7
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Hi Lee
366USD - that's not too bad but now, what's the best way of avoiding duty? Any more offers????? Cheers...
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'93 R129 500SL-32 '89 190E 2.6 - sold in 2002 http://antron.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/i...nature/Sig.jpg |
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