yeap im back! im the one that wanted to blow up the 300E and light a cigarette while I watched it burn, remember me?

Well I still havent blown the car up yet, and prolly dont plan on to. But, I need someone's suggestion on how I can finally get this god forbidden fuel problem resolved without having to pay so much money. I'm on a tight budget at the moment, and having a fuel problem just makes it a prettier picture, doesnt it?

I have bought a rebuilt fuel distributor, a rotor and distributor for the spark plugs, new spark plugs, new wires, and an oil change for my car. Still, the car turns on, but when accelerated the only thing heard on the engine is the air passing through the mass meter unit, and the car doesnt respond with an acceleration in the engine. It's like no gas is entering the engine, only air. Infact, just minutes ago I started the car, took about 7 tries to get it runnin (with some major vibrations in the engine area, like it wanted to jump out) then when I pressed the gas it would not respond, However, I left is running for a while and noticed that as I pressed the gas in a little more, the car would take in more gas. Finally I got to where I'd press teh pedal in almost at 5000 rpm and the car sounded perfect. Seconds later the car dies after I let go of the gas pedal. I get out of the car and check the muffler, due to some weird engine sounds I heard during the examination. I see traces of water that came from the muffler....like bits of water puddles right under the muffler. This may have occured due to the number of months (thats about 9) that my car has never seen a highway, and has been sitting on my driveway.

I just want someone with a decent amount of experience to give me an opinion on the following suggestion:

I want to buy each and every part that has to do with the fuel system on my car, brand new that is. I dont care how much it costs, but I am looking at buying "NEW" parts (unless one of you professionals suggest something else). I am pretty sure this is not anything electronic, but then again I am only a college student at the University of Texas, trying to get a degree in architecture, I have absolutely no experience in Europena Cars (Domestic cars a know a ****load of).

Any suggesitons or comments to make on whether I am making a right decision here. I really do not want to sell my poor little 300E. Infact I want to fix it up and drive the thing around.

My email is architect1803@yahoo.com if you need to email me for any reason please do so.

The Car: 1986 Mercedes 300E (W124) 6cyl. Gas Engine. 3.0

Someone please help me out....I am in serious need of help at the moment. Any comments will be greatly appreciated...

PEACE!
dj cee

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ehhh no one so far huh?

PEACE!
dj cee

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does the engine rev at all when you press the gas? have you replaced the fuel filter? have you checked the fuel pump(s) for consistent flow? I dont really understand the symptoms you explained. how can you hear the air flowing through the intake?

nenad

Not a professional, but unless you're endlessly wealthy, I'd advise against replacing everything.
We'll need more data, but suggest that the problem be approached systematically. The situation is compounded by the fact that the car has been sitting.
Start it and let it get up to temperature before making any other decisions.
If its starting hard, and not responding to accelerator input when cold, it sounds like mine when I unplugged the EHA. Hard to start, unresponsive to gas pedal.. but it does start ultimately, and warms up. Don't rev it to 5000 either. You'll do nothing but trash your engine. Let it warm up.
Once warm (temp guage up to 80), it should act somewhat normal.
Then you can start the diagnostic process. For now, it could be a dozen or so things, and you'll need a volt / ohm meter, (preferably digital, but analog will work), and a desire to learn. If this instruction is already over your head, you don't have a volt meter, and don't want to get one, you are pretty much limited to throwing money at someone else to fix it.
Which way do you want to go?

haha! err, i think ill go with the volt meter...infact i will ebay that right now. If i cant find it on ebay then we'll have to go with some automotive car parts selling site. Also I called one of the closest European Automotive Centers from my house, and they charge $110 an hour JUST to diagnose my car with whatever it has, plus I have pay $80 to get it towed down ther and back (Woodlands, TX). I thought that was a pretty abusive price...but I dont know.

Anyways, any suggestions where I can buy a volt meter as far as online, or any automotive parts stores? Also, I'll be PMing you when I get one because I have no idea how I'll be using this.

Thanx,
dj cee

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DJ Cee

mwoodland i have a question man. one thing i forgot to mention, that really struck me was the funny sounds that were coming from the rear and catalyctic area of the car while i was pressing on the gas. I know for a fact that my fuel pump is ok, since i ran a simple test on it when replacing my fuel distributor of disconnecting the fule line that runs from the fuel pump to the distributor, and turning the ingintion key to where the fuel would shoot out from that line (which is essentially the fule that enters the distributor).

However, the sounds I was hearing from the middle (tranny area) of the car have come to make me think what one guy suggested last month right here on the forums (dkteuro/23yrs exp.), and that's that the catalytic may be clogged up. When I heard that noise last night, I just remembered that quote by this guy.

Again, maybe this may be a factor in my car's dillemma, maybe not. For now I'll just stick with finding a digital Volt Meter and going on from there.

PEACE!
dj cee

P.S. hey what kind of car did you have those fuel problems on?

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I may have missed this, but did you install the fuel distributer or did a technicial do it? Thes ethings need to be adjusted during installation. There is procedure in the MB shop manual using pressure measurments across the distributor. Before you spend a bunch have an experienced MB tech. perform the diagnostics to determine if you have a bad fuel pump, dampener, regulator or hopefully not, a fuel management computer.

Do a search for "adjusting EHA" lots of info & links that might well be part of your problem.

Don't just start buying stuff. Replacing good parts won't improve anything and is just frustrating.

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Norm in NJ
Next oil change at 230,000miles

maybe I'm missing something...

But "catalyctic area of the car while i was pressing on the gas. I know for a fact that my fuel pump is ok, since i ran a simple test on it when replacing my fuel distributor of disconnecting the fule line that runs from the fuel pump to the distributor, and turning the ingintion key to where the fuel would shoot out from that line (which is essentially the fule that enters the distributor" *is not an accurate test method.*


If your pump is putting out 5psi- it is dead. A couple hundred dollars for diagnosis would be well spent if they are good mercedes mechanics. Of course that is always the caveat-

Buy a manual for your car!

Michael

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Michael McGuire
83 300d
01 vw A4 TDI
66 Chevy Corsa
68 GMC V6 w/oD
86 300E

I have a 87 300e. Sounds like my car. Mine has two gas pumps, one was dead. Car would run then loose power and not go over 1000RPM. Leave it long enough and you will smell something burning.