All:

I have a 89 190e 2.6 with intermittent ABS light on followed by CE light that causes engine to stutter and fail...hard start and rough idle as well.

I pulled the OVP and did the "shake" test...old OVP rattled like a tin can with a coin in it, so I just replaced it this morning with an OEM Benz part fromt the dealership...made absolutely no difference. ABS light is still coming on intermittently and CE light will reappear causing engine stall.

Before replacing OVP relay, I changed fuel filter, plugs, and new injectors and seals...absolutely no difference in idling characteristics.

Today, Im also noticing that the defog vents on top of the dash are blowing hot air. None of the switches or the fresh air vent is switched ON at the console, but Im still feeling very hot air blowing from the right and left dash vents and the defog vents...additionally, from time to time, I get a whiff of antifreeze, but strangely, the antifreeze level is good, and I see no leaks anywhere (although I have not pressure tested system yet)???

Before I unlaod this car, what additionally can I check for? Is this hot air/antifreeze smell related to OVP relay somehow (although this doesnt seem logical)?

Do I have to reset the computer and erase all the codes for the new OVP to work properly?

Can someone help??? I've read about 100 OVP and CE light related posts....so I'm in the dark on what to do next.

Thanks in advance for the help.

ICH

All:

I have a 89 190e 2.6 with intermittent ABS light on followed by CE light that causes engine to stutter and fail...hard start (at all temps) and rough idle as well.

I pulled the OVP and did the "shake" test...old OVP rattled like a tin can with a coin in it, so I just replaced it this morning with an OEM Benz part from the dealership...made absolutely no difference!!!! ABS light is still coming on intermittently and CE light will reappear causing engine stall. Seems to get worse as the car gets warmer.

Before replacing OVP relay, I changed fuel filter, plugs, and new injectors and seals...absolutely no difference in idling and stall characteristics.

Today, Im also noticing that the defog vents on top of the dash are blowing hot air. None of the switches or the fresh air vent is switched ON at the console, but Im still feeling very hot air blowing from the right and left dash vents and the defog vents...additionally, from time to time, I get a whiff of antifreeze, but strangely, the antifreeze level is good, and I see no leaks anywhere (although I have not pressure tested system yet)??? Could this be a heater core or water pump issue as well???

Before I unload this money pit of a car, what additionally can I check for?

Do I have to reset the computer and erase all the codes for the new OVP to work properly?

Can someone please help??? I've read about 100 OVP and CE light related posts....so I'm in the dark on what to do next.

Thanks in advance for the help.

ICH

does the ce light and the abs light always come on at the same time? is it always the same pattern (ce, abs, engine stall, etc)?

On start ups after a few stops, ABS light comes on first...car usually idles fine with ABS light on....ABS usually goes out after a bit and then CE light comes on causing stalling and then engine will usually quit. This condition worsens as the car gets hotter.

The ABS light may in fact indicate an ABS problem. When the car fists starts and is driven to a stop sign or signal light, the brake pedal will pulsate coming to that first "cold" stop. Very possible that something is wrong with the sensor(s). I heavent checked the barke discs for warpage, but, it feels like it is an ABS issue.

I replaced the OVP, hoping for the best, but both conditions remain. Sometimes the car will go at a good clip without either light coming on...but usually, the ABS light comes on, followed a few minutes after by the stalling/CE light condition.

Any ideas on this one????????? I'm losing patience.

I'm thinking I need to rid myself of this car. This will probably be my first and LAST MB.

Should I just splurge $130 for the MB dealership diagnostics test and proceed from there???

Thanks.

The OVP, overvoltage protection relay, supplies power to the ECU and ABS computer. In the case the alternator fails or if a high voltage problem occurs, a zener diode conducts causing the fuse(s) to blow protecting the electronics. A problem may occur with solder joints inside the OVP case as well.

Resolder the fuel pump relay as well. This is a common problem on European cars.

Check the ABS sensors in the hub area. There may be iron filings that need to be removed. Those will cause a bad signal. The pulsing means it's working.

You need to get the codes from the ECU and fix any problem or problems indicated. Check the basics first, cap, rotor, wires and plugs. Make sure the coil wire is not fried where it attaches under the distributor cover.

You will have to elimiate vacuum leaks, bad sensors, broken wires or a bad O2 sensor, for instance.

Check and fix one problem at a time.

Do you have a shop manual/CD?

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

Since you obviously know nothing about the car, choosing to be mad at it accomplished just as much as your tinkering. You are working on a simple Mercedes and blaming the car for your difficulties. Will you try brain surgery next?


Professional help doesn't mean you are less of a person. People do it all the time even when they know what they are doing. if I sound unsympathetic, its because I am. I fix cars for a living and even help a lot of people who don't know what they are doing. You will never catch me stating that this problem has this answer. You will find me describing the system so the one in need does know what he is doing. This post has no attempt to logically solve the problem. Replace a few parts, consult the crystal ball, and chuck the car.

__________________
Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician