Dash light

[elau]

I have post this question originally in regards to if changing a bulb in the instrument cluster a DIY project for my R129. Since my last posting, the light (for the clock on the right side of dash)I thought burn out mysteriously came back on. Now it is out again. Do you guys think I should check the fuse first? Or one fuse works on all dash lights and therefore it is definitely a burn bulb? My dealer quoted me $150 for the job, does that sound high (almost two hours to change a bulb)?

95 R129
98 ML320

[vinamg]

Sounds like a faulty bulb. Had a problem like this one on a w140. When you tap it lightly it would come on. You can replace this bulb in less than 10 minutes, with the proper tools. You need a special hook to pull out the cluster from the dash.
There is another way of doing it, if you don't have the tool. Remove the driver's side speaker cover and ac vent. Stick your hand in and push the cluster out of the dash. Remove and replace faulty bulb. Push cluster back into place and install other pieces.
If you are scared of damaging anything, have someone else do it, or go back to your dealer and ask for a reasonable price.

[MBenzNL]

elau,

The flashing light is definitely a bulb. All dash bulbs are share the same fuse.
If you're going to use hooks to get out the dash cluster, you hace to do this gently. The soft dash material can be damaged very easily and if you put the hooks on the wrong spot you will tear down the glass part in front of the cluster.
Pushing the dash cluster from behind is my personal favorite (like vinamg mentioned).
If you're going to change the bulb yourself, be sure to change them all in once; just to be sure that you don't have the same problem next week again.

If you take out the dash cluster and disconnect the plugs in the back of the cluster, be sure to have the ignition key in pos 0 and don't turn the key in pos 1 or 2 whilst the dash cluster is still disconnected; it will cause a illuminated SRS/airbag bulb! Nothing happens if you keep the ignition switched off.

greetingz & good luck,

I believe that on a R129 car......you have to pull off the steering wheel in order to pull the dash cluster out far enough to access the bulbs.

[vinamg]

It's been a while since I've done a 129, but I don't think you need to remove the steering wheel. Just make sure to telescope it out as far as possible.

Since you mentioned the steering wheel. If anybody ever removes the steering wheel, please make sure to tighten it properly. Since the bolt is tapered you only need to hand tighten and then turn another 1/16 of a turn.
I've seen them so tight that it is impossible to remove. I had two cars which I had to drill out and replace the bolt. You can notice if somebody has been messing with it because the factory puts a paint mark.
One guy passed the paint mark by half a turn. I'm not sure what he used to tighten it, but I was furious.

I was doing an evaporator job and had to remove the steering wheel. I ended up lowering the whole steering column, which wasn't that bad. But I prefer removing the wheel because it is easier to work.

Vin

[MBenzNL]

vinamg,

I could not agree more. Removing the steering wheel takes away chances of damaging the dash and/or dash cluster (especially in the C-class).
I think it should be possible to get the dash cluster out without removing the steering wheel (haven't tried it yet with my own SL) in contrary to the W107 models.

By the way, mercedes uses "loctite" on the steering wheel bolts which makes it (not always but still to often) impossible to unscrew some of the bolt. I think they are afraid that the bolt will come loose.....

greetingz,

[vinamg]

I've taken out many steering wheels. The only time I had a problem was if someone other than the factory tightened it. You can tell by the paint mark or even by examening the allen insert, for damages.
Anyway, I think that some mechanics, not Mercedes, get scared of the wheel coming off and as a result overtighten it.

I do agree with you on the loctite, but with the proper tools you shouldn't have any problems removing it.
I usually use a 1/2" drive socket type allen with a long handle.





[Edited by vinamg on 01-09-2001 at 10:45 AM]

[jgl1]

FYI - M-B, because of safety (and legal) concerns, advises against reuse of steering wheel retention screws; service literature clearly states a new screw is to be used during steering wheel R&R and torque values are listed for installation. New screws (# 126 990 03 12 for most models) retail for less than $5.00 and are factory-coated with a micro-encapsulated adhesive.