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  #1  
Old 01-14-2001, 11:42 AM
stevepeck
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I have a 1987 260E with the 2.6. It leaks oil like a sieve! It comes from the head gasket area at the back of the head and drips onto the exhaust.

I have read the Alldata tech CD and feel that I can do this. Several questions for the pros, ameteurs and anybody who has done this before:

Is there anything that I should do "while I am in there?"
Is there anything that I should remember to do / not to do?
Are there any special tools that I will need?
How can I tell if the valves or the head need re-working?
Are there any shortcuts - like "Leave the _____ in place, no matter what the CD suggests."
What other gaskets will I need? (I'll ask the parts guys, too.)
Are there any bolts to use lock-tite or specialized thread lub on upon reassembly?

The CD would have me believe that it's a pretty standard procedure.

Thanks SO MUCH, in advance.
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  #2  
Old 01-14-2001, 02:07 PM
engatwork's Avatar
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Join Date: May 2000
Location: Soperton, Ga. USA
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As a diy'er who has had a few heads reworked I would suggest removing it and turning it over to a reputable machine shop that does head work. Try to find a tech that you will get that warm, fuzzy feeling with and turn it over to him. Keep in mind too that some of these types of shops (in rural areas anyway) are not on main street attached to an automobile shop. The last one that I had done the guy builds dragster engines so all the work came out great.

Anyway, while the head is off replace the chains/sprockets if needed. I would just go ahead with replacing the plastic guides/pieces that are used in the vicinity of the chain. Everything on the front of the engine that you open/expose/inspect should be a candidate for replacement if you see anything you don't like.

Jim
'95 E320
'97 Honda CRV
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  #3  
Old 01-14-2001, 05:14 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: New Bedford, MA USA
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1. Get the valve guides and seals replaced.
2. Have the valve seats recut and the valves refaced.
3. If the mileage is high, consider the chain rails, but..remember, to get them off, you will need to disassemble the front of the engine, ie. front cover, harmonic damper/crank pulley, etc.
4. Remember to check the length of the head bolts prior to reassembly, as they can be stretched beyond specification. The head bolts are torqued in three stages, the last two being angle tightening thru 90 degrees. I would replace them. Not very expensive insurance.
5. Have the cam checked for lobe wear and end play while the head is apart.
6. Make sure the tech replaces the spacers that fit between the valve stems and the rocker arms when the head is reassembled.
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Jeff Lawrence
1989 300e
2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE
No matter what you fix, there will always be something else to fix..
"Warranty" is just another way of postponing the inevitable.
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  #4  
Old 01-15-2001, 01:03 PM
stevepeck
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So should I understand that the valves and head should be reworked no matter what?

I have been told (by only one source) not to bother with valve work unless it is necessary...

...but how do I know if it is necessary??

Thanks again.
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  #5  
Old 01-15-2001, 02:07 PM
engatwork's Avatar
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Join Date: May 2000
Location: Soperton, Ga. USA
Posts: 11,773
based on the frequency

of oil changes and milage will determine whether valve work is required or not. You can verify the tolerances/wear with the correct tools and written specifications for your model.

Best case you will not have to replace anything but valve seals. Worst case you could end up replacing a valve or two. It is all based on the frequency of oil changes.

Has your source visually looked at the condition of the valves and taken some measurements? This is really the only real way I would know.

Jim
'95 E320
'97 Honda CRV
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  #6  
Old 01-15-2001, 03:15 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: New Bedford, MA USA
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It's an '87. It will need the work if you are at all planning to keep the car. The guides are of an older type of material that did not wear well. If you have the head off (the biggest chunk of labor)and you want to protect your investment give this work careful consideration. All of this depends on a number of factors, mileage, compression, any burning of oil (hard to tell with your current problem). Take a look at the plugs. Bottom line, do it now while you already have it apart, or...come back later and do it then.. Pick your poison..
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Jeff Lawrence
1989 300e
2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE
No matter what you fix, there will always be something else to fix..
"Warranty" is just another way of postponing the inevitable.
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