E320 - still vibrating after new tires ...

I had posted this over in the tire section, but by the responses it seems it might be a tech issue...

After reading a couple of helpful responses I searched flex disc and center support bearing but it seems if either of these go bad the car would make a clunking noise or a drone possibly. Not my case, the car is as quiet as it could be , just the vibrating at highway speeds (as I said before, feels like my g/f's Ford Focus ).

In recap of my post in the tire section I just replaced the two front tires for Michelin MXV4 and had it aligned yesterday. In the back I have one MXV4 and a Continental (forgot which one, but it rode very well when I had the four Continentals in the past, meaning not a cheap tire). Someone mentioned make sure I have four MATCHING tires. My vibration I feel it coming from the floor board.

Note it is note excessive as if the car is falling apart, but just imagine driving, as I said before , and Escort or Focus (well, I mean any American made car )

I have to do the front brakes as the light came on 2K miles ago, so wonder if the rotors could be warped or something? I don't know just brain storming.

tha nks

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1995 E320 smoke silver / parchment

After getting new tires a couple of years ago, I've put up with a slight trembling at 60-75mph, sometimes apparent, sometimes hardly noticeable. Re-balancing had no effect. Did not have that with previous tires.

Brakes needed pads replaced recently, so replaced F/R pads and front rotors (DIY) and flushed fluid. All vibration subsequently has disappeared. I had suspected before the rotors might be a problem, since there was sometimes pulsation felt when braking, which is also now gone.

Steve

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'91 MB 190E 2.3
'08 RAV4 Ltd 3.5
'83 Lazy Daze m'home 5.7

i know I have to do my front rotors on the CE, I get the pulse, and I am convinced its rotors.

I have a spare set sitting in the garage... I plan on flipping them, and then having someone "shave" the old ones and keep them as spares.

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1989 300ce 129k
( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone)

1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus

1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k



1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it


[/SIGPIC]

yosshimura, by all means get matching tires on all 4 wheels. Having an odd tire introduces the possibility of that being the cause of the vibration. Slightly warped rotors should only cause a vibration when the brakes are applied, not during normal driving. However a bent, or out of balance, wheel could cause vibration at highway speeds.

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Fred Hoelzle

I am going to have to replace that one pending Continental in the back. I just hate it as it isn't in bad condition. THe tire shop noticed that on the other COntinental they replaced and even put it in my trunk, lol...

I am thinking taking it over and telling them it is still vibrating and replace the tire...we'll see.

[edit] I'll take it Mon, they were packed today....

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1995 E320 smoke silver / parchment

When replaceing front tires , Many times they will take the best of whats left and put them on the back.. I have seen a front to back tire swap cause this type of problem due to tread pattern wear...

There are two ways the center shaft bearing can fail. first, the bearings themselves can fail, second, the rubber isolator the bearing is centered in can dry rot and fail to.

My rubber isolator was shot and it caused a wobble at certain speeds which transmitted shake, or vibration.

If you can get one eyeball with a flash light to look down the pan tunnel and move the drive shaft up and down, or side to side, you should be able to see if that rubber isolator is compromised.

Anecdotely, I can verify this is not true, but perhaps one problem is assuming warpage is the only possible fault with rotors. Improperly seated rotors, or ones worn unevenly for any reason can be a problem. Note too that unapplied disk brakes will have a hair's breadth gap between pads and rotors. Any surface runout will cause contact for an arc of a full revolution, and this can result in shimmy.

Another thing to watch for - I found a missing setscrew attaching one rotor. This allows looseness of the rotor whenever the wheel is removed. Loose rust or debris can then find its way between the hub/rotor mating surface, causing wobble when the wheel is re-installed.

Steve

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'91 MB 190E 2.3
'08 RAV4 Ltd 3.5
'83 Lazy Daze m'home 5.7