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  #1  
Old 01-26-2001, 10:01 AM
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Location: Sunny Florida
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For those who pay attention to my posts, you will recall I have replaced my braking support joints, attempting to quiet the knocking from my front end when the suspension travels up and down. I have also replaced the sway bar links in the rear, and both of these quieted some noises, but the solid knocking still exists.

When I replaced the supporting joint, I only replaced the ball joint in the carrier, not the rubber bushings where the housing mounts to the body. Could this, or the bushing mounting the joint to the lower A arm be causing this noise?

Any other ideas on this? It is a knocking, and it appears to come from the footwells, as the car goes over bumps at slow speed, or around turns at slow speed. any help will be appreciated.
Thanks a lot....
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1989 560SEL (172k)
1989 325IC (122K)
2004 Suzuki Volusia LE (3500 miles)
2005 Yamaha Road Star (20 K miles)
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  #2  
Old 01-27-2001, 10:22 PM
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have same problem with 420SEL, particularly when cold, but it only last a few miles. Just had my suspension gone over with a fine tooth comb for various problems, and had all four shocks and steering damper replaced. Find a good M/B shop you trust and ask them.
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  #3  
Old 01-29-2001, 10:06 PM
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560 SEL suspension knock

What you describe sounds to me like the strut rod mounts--which you have replaced? Or the big rubber mounts for that big aluminum alloy mounting housing are bad and letting the mount hit the frame. I have a pair for one side I'll sell for half price if that is what it is.

It also could be the hard rubber mounts on the front end of the strut rods.

Keep looking till you find it--I wouldn't feel comfortable driving it until I knew what the cause was and could judge the safety.

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  #4  
Old 01-29-2001, 11:42 PM
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How old are the shocks?
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  #5  
Old 01-30-2001, 08:39 AM
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I will remove one bolt from the steering damper and see if there is still resistance there. I will also check the mounts for it, but I do not think these mounts have rubber in them.

It may well be the large rubber insulators which hold the mount to the frame, but I could not duplicate the noise from them. And I agree, I need to solve this problem.

To address the shock question - I have no reason to believe the shocks have ever been replaced. I was going to crawl under there this weekend, and check the shock mounts, as perhaps the rubber in there has deteriorated?

Thanks for the replies and the help, I will let you know if and when I find it.
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1989 560SEL (172k)
1989 325IC (122K)
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2005 Yamaha Road Star (20 K miles)
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  #6  
Old 01-30-2001, 08:58 AM
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John

Try spraying WD40 in the rubber bushings one set at a time. Drive the car and if the noise disappears you will know what bushings are bad (if it is the bushings causing the problem). It will only temporary eliminate the noise, but you will know if it is the bushings or not.

Good Luck
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  #7  
Old 01-30-2001, 10:36 AM
Q Q is offline
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Have someone inspect your drive shaft center bearing support. I suffered the same problem and this was the fix. Put your hand on the drive shaft tunnel behind the front seats when you expect to hear the noise over a bump. You will feel the impact in this location.
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  #8  
Old 01-31-2001, 12:24 AM
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John,that's exactly what I was thinking, is that the rubber bushings at the top of the shock has worn a bit, and has shrunk a bit over time, and that now there is enough space to cause a clunk. Besides, if they are that old, and have that many miles on them, it might be time to replace them anyway. If you feel that they are still in good working order, then see if you can tighten things up a bit.
-Larry
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  #9  
Old 02-12-2001, 09:00 AM
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Finally fixed! I need to post the solution for all to benefit from.

This weekend I had a friend who works at a local shop look under it and try to find the source.....

He diagnosed the bushings in the supporting joint carrier, (Kebowers' guess wins!), and offered to replace them.
Of course, I paid him to do it. And I think this is fair, as he took the time on a Saturday to throw my car on the lift and poke around. (Shop was closed) He also replaced the steering shock while he was under there. Cost me money, (UGH!), as he does not have a discount at MBenz for parts, he was able to find them. He also aligned it, (more money), which looked like it was required to me. Parts - $125, labor 3 hours, including the alignment. (Also dinner later, but I think I got more from that than he did - he is a funny guy!) Honestly, I think this was cheaper than I would have gotten at other places. He is not a MB shop, but a good honest mechanic. The noise is gone, and that is worth lots!

Thanks for all the advice!
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1989 325IC (122K)
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2005 Yamaha Road Star (20 K miles)
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  #10  
Old 02-12-2001, 10:53 AM
BlackE55
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Good info. John!

I too experienced the harshness and clunk. Replaced the rear shocks and that seemed to do the trick. I wonder if those bushings get replaced when the shocks are (??)

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  #11  
Old 02-12-2001, 11:12 AM
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W126,

My clunk was from the front, and went away when this was replaced. The supporting joint takes the force of the wheels and transfers it to the frame of the car in the front.

The clunking in the rear going away with the rear shock replacement could be the sway bar links. I can certainly understand your mechanic replacing those when the shocks in the rear are replaced. He would be right there anyway, and the parts are not too expensive, (especially when compared to the price of the shocks!)

Also to note: The driver's side bushing was much worse, as I had a power steering leak last year. The rubber bushing was still oily from this, and very deteriorated. I am sure this contributed to the bushing's failure.




[Edited by JohninFLa on 02-12-2001 at 08:20 PM]
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1989 560SEL (172k)
1989 325IC (122K)
2004 Suzuki Volusia LE (3500 miles)
2005 Yamaha Road Star (20 K miles)
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  #12  
Old 02-12-2001, 01:09 PM
BlackE55
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That's right, it was front end issues. I haven't read over the thread in a while.

I spoke with my Benz mechanic and asked about the stiff ride in the rear. He said that even though the shocks are new, it will ride stiff in the cold (I'm in WI - and it's been a cold one so far) until the fluid in the self-leveling susp. gets a chance to warm up or the outside temp is warm.

Since work is near home, as are most places I frequent, I'm sure the car never approaches *that* temp. I only put on about 10-15 miles a day.

BTW: Where was the origin of your power steering leak and what was the resolution? Mine drips a bit from the lowest part of the ps hoses. Not sure if it's the pump itself or hoses.

[Edited by w126 on 02-12-2001 at 12:12 PM]
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  #13  
Old 02-12-2001, 03:17 PM
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Location: Sunny Florida
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The power steering leak was from the low pressure hose. The hose had dried out, and cracked. There were many little cracks along the length of the hose, and the hose "weeped" fluid. I replaced the hose with p/s hose from a hydraulic shop, along with 2 new clamps and presto! problem solved. The hardest part was getting my chuppy little paws in to remove and replace the hose, which ends down behind the pump.

Look at the ends of the hose, down behind the pump. You can almost see where it ends if you look hard. The hose is only a foot long, (rubber part), and about 7/8" diameter. The low pressure side has hose clamps, while the high pressure uses fittings.

As far as the cold and your rear suspension: The pump is mounted to the front timing case of your engine, and this should heat the fluid up. Unless the fluid does not mix with the fluid in the shocks? Not sure on this one, as we don't get much of that cold stuff here in sunny florida!

Good luck! and keep warm.....
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1989 560SEL (172k)
1989 325IC (122K)
2004 Suzuki Volusia LE (3500 miles)
2005 Yamaha Road Star (20 K miles)
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  #14  
Old 02-12-2001, 07:49 PM
Benzman
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Support Joints

Your right. You need to replace the support joint bushing that is attached to the body. This will cause knocking when Braking and going around turms. I've fixed my 560sel several times over the past 12 years and this has always been the culprit.
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