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#16
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Go get a six point, box end wrench. Drive it on the head of the bolt with a hammer if necessary and then use a cheater pipe if necessary. If you have not already buggered the plug head too much, this will work.
Good luck, |
#17
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In ugly situations I put JB weld in the socket and place over offending nut/bolt overnight (there are quick set epoxies available at wally world). Next day I have a nice sold piece to twist. It is easier to replace the piece than to clean off the JB. Also need to replace socket.
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82 300D....went to MB heaven 90 350 SDL....excercising con rods |
#18
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First get a new plug. Vice grips and a hammer should remove the old one
Remember righty tighty lefty loosey. wouldn't be the first time someone was turning the wrong way. |
#19
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You might try searching. This has been well covered previously. Many of the same things were mentioned plus a few more including my use of "freeze-it" spray which seemed to work.
Mike
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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine) 1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow) Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra |
#20
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Rounded Drainplug Head
Here's A Trick I Used One Time. Worked Great. Get A Strong Socket That Is Just Slightly Smaller Than The Head Of The Bolt. Then Pound It On The Bolt Head With A Hammer. Since The Bolt Head Is Soft Metal, The Socket Pounds On Nice And Tight. Then Slip The Socket Wrench Into Socket And Out She Comes. Make Sure You Have A New Drain Plug Available .
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#21
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And when you get it out, have a look at these :
http://www.lubricationspecialist.com/index.php?cPath=12&html=fumoto.htm
__________________
2007 C 230 Sport. ![]() |
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