|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Hi,
I am going to try and tackle installing my new cross drilled rotors and brake pads this weekend on my 99 C230K. I have performed the search function on this site and came across some instructions. But my question is, do I need any other parts (brake sensors, paste, brake cleaner, etc) when doing this job? My brake light has yet to light up on the dash. Also, is a change of brake fluid recommended at this time? Which one would be the best? Thank in advance. Dave |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
A few notes here.
Use blue loctite on the caliper bolts and tighten to specs. Change the pads one at a time, remove one, push the piston back in it's bore, then install pad, repeat on other piston of caliper. Do not remove both pads at the same time. You should be thoroughly flushing the brake fluid on an annual basis, if not flush it at the time of your brake job, and then start flushing annually. Good luck, |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Larry, I like the comment about changing the brake fluid, sound advice I think. It is easy to overlook the fact that brake fluid is hygroscopic and in most climates, absorbs water from the atmosphere at a very alarming rate. This will of course affect the braking capabilities as a few hard applications on the pedal will boil the water in the fluid and hey presto, no brakes !. The absortion of water will also corrode the internal parts, especially in the calipers and shorten the life of the brake components. One question though, we certainly need to change it often, but do we change it hot too ?
__________________
1993 190E 2.0L (Euro.) sold 1991. 500 SEL (Euro.) 1991. 300 CE (Euro.) sold 1993. 500 E (U.S. spec.) |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Andy,
Good point! I don't suggest changing it hot, and I also don't suggest draining it overnight. It's the corrosion problem that makes me change it. In the brake calipers the corrosion is accelerated by heat. I remember many years ago taking my car to an inspection station and saw an open container of brake fluid. It really irritated me that he left it open. Brake fluid soaks moisture out of the air like a sponge. Then he was putting it in an unsuspecting customers car. And he was supposed to be seeing that your car was safe. Have agreat day, |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks guys for the tips. I will be sure to change the fluid as well. Do any of you know if I will need special MB tools to do this job? I just don't want to get started and find out I can't take a bolt off because I needed some special MB tool... Thanks again guys for your help.
Dave |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Larry / dwang.
Yes of course changing and bleeding the fluid is only done when cold. I tend to do my fluid changes every year and under cover, usually first thing in the morning with a pot of fresh coffee made. Sticking to the common sense procedures for jacking the car and removing the road wheels, I can usually have the car done before noon. I will always flush the fluid through a few times to ensure that all the air is out and I have a system full of clean, new fluid. I have made a non return valve from an LP gas brass check valve and a length of new hose and a clean glass jar. I have had plenty of suces this way, on the Mercedes cars equally as well, ABS/SRS and all. I had a nasty experience once in Hong Kong with a Volvo 144 whilst on a day out in the New Territories, family, kids and everyone on board. I thought I smelt what I thought resembles a slipping clutch smell for a few miles before braking for a set of stop light. It scared the livein bejabers out of me when the pedal went to the floor ! I was luck enough to stop with the manual gearbox and handbrake without further incident. I had the car towed home and sorted it out the following day, all it needed was some new, clean, moisture free fluid. Boy, did that teach me a lesson ! You too, have a real good day !
__________________
1993 190E 2.0L (Euro.) sold 1991. 500 SEL (Euro.) 1991. 300 CE (Euro.) sold 1993. 500 E (U.S. spec.) |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
My owner's manual says to only use dot5 brake fluid, which I understand is synthetic and non hydroscopic. Should I still watch out for people like Larry mentioned when they do my fluid changes for me?
__________________
Jason Priest 1999 E430 1995 E420 - retired 1986 420SEL - retired |
Bookmarks |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Are brake rotors as much a wear item as pads? | JHZR2 | Diesel Discussion | 22 | 04-24-2006 06:22 PM |
Wrong fluids in the brake system. | ericnguyen | Tech Help | 17 | 04-01-2005 07:31 PM |
Replacing brake rotors and pads on a 95 E320 W124 - first time DIY observations | 71Rcode | Tech Help | 11 | 03-10-2004 01:00 PM |
EXCELLENT Brake Pad Information Here | adamb | Diesel Discussion | 3 | 10-08-2003 10:46 PM |
New pads & rotors dragging on my Oldsmobile | TedG | Tech Help | 12 | 11-05-2002 08:28 AM |