I am trying to troubleshoot an electrical problem. On my 1982 300SD, the rise and fall, as well as the recline on the passenger seat do not work. It seems that I do not have power coming thru the red w/ white stripe wire. I have full function on the driver's side seat, so I think I have a break in the wire itself. I was thinking about cutting the red/white wire and using it to pull a new wire from the switch to the fuse box. Has anyone tried this?
I need to get to the underside of the fusebox to solder the new wire in. I do not need to fully remove it I just need to turn it over.
I found the 2 screws on the side of the front of the box, just behind the bulkhead. It feels like the box is still screwed in somewhere. Any help?

try a needle with your volt meter and puncture the wire to see where you loose power. ita a easy puncture and you wont have to worry about retaping. they make a tool like an awl, with a light bulb. The shops use it all the time

Open the fusebox cover, look at the leading and trailing ends of the box. You should see a couple screws, remove them and lift the fuse panel. All of the wire will be accessible as are the wire retaining screws.

__________________
Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.

Someone on another thread awhile back was mentioning something about removing a fuse box on their W126 or W123, but was saying something about pushing it out from under the dash? I was thinking that the only fuse box on these cars was under the hood? Is there another under the instrument panel?

I recently bought a Mercedes and soon I want to check all of my fuses and make sure that they are the proper amperage. Are "MB" fuses best, or will the ones that can be purchased at Wal-Mart be suitable (if I do need any)?

I remember back in the late 90s when I had my JUNK 82' BMW 733i, that I had a very difficult time locating fuses for it. NONE of the local auto parts stores had it, Wal-Mart did not carry them at the time (they do now I noticed). I did finally find them at a local CarQuest. That was the last place I checked.

That car (82' BMW) was a fire waiting to happen. Someone had removed (or should I say "ripped out" the radio, cut the wires to bits and left the bare wiring exposed. It was a bunch of tangled spaghetti in that hole. Also, my AC/heater controls were completely on the fritz. Would not work at all (perhaps a severed wiring to it as well?), several warning lamps would stay illuminated all of the time, despite not needing anything it was calling for. The strangest thing is that the lights in the window switches on the console would stay illuminated CONSTANTLY. I had to disconnect the battery every night. I had no idea what was going on there, but there was something I could remove there and see where the wiring had been tampered with. Also, the original engine (3.3L I6) had been replaced with a 2.8L I6 out of a 5-Series. There was a sensor by the thermostat (coolant sensor?) that was on the fritz. Hooked up, it would not restart when hot - when unhooked it would not start when cold. . I was VERY GLAD to get shed of that lemon. It had been abused by the PO however, so it was not really all the cars fault I suppose. Despite having the smaller 2.8L out of the 5-series, that car would still FLY! Very peppy, but then my old 81' Toyota Cressida with a 2.8L I6 would fly too.

86 just make sure the fuses are copper/ceramic not aluminium/ceramic from whereever you get them from.

Over here I can mostly get them from auto shops (having trouble getting 8amp copper ones ).

They don't corrode like the aluminium ones do.

There is no fuse box under the dash that I know of.

Cheers

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1988 W126 420 SE

beware of fundamentalists!