Anyone out there in Benzland replaced a 124 window regulator? I am going to replace my driver's rear window regulator this weekend.

Any advice or input appreciated.

Jack
93 400e

I had replaced a regulator on my Dodge once, it was not a easy task. Have you check with the auto windows company or body shop?? Your insurance company should have a list of vendors in your area. I don't think it will cost very much.

jack

If you don't have the manuals, good luck. However, it is not too bad once you figure out how to take the door skin. The window has to be half open or 3/4 open (if I remember corectly) to remove the window regulator. I held it in that position with masking tape. The door skin is held to the door fame with plastic hooks and screws. After you take all the screws out, plus the door handle, you have to push up and away from the door. If you did it right all the hooks will come out in one piece. If you did not, oh well! Things to do/check while you are there: door strap (is your door hard to close?) and don't forget to reinstall the plastic cover (you may want to install Dynamat, optional). It is NOT as bad as it sounds!

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J.H.
'86 300E

ocpdba,

I replaced the left rear regulator on my 88 300e last summer. It is not a hard job. The tricky part was removing the door skin without damaging the plastic hooks that holds it to the door frame. I broke one of the hooks, but a little super glue was all it needed. I can fax you a copy of the procedures if you wish. Just advise your number.

Marks88

It is much harder than you may think. Yes, taking off the skin of the door is one of the hard parts. However, depending on your experience. It may not be a job not recommended for a amateur DIY. It took me awhile to figure out the regulator to work with the teeth of the motor. Make sure all the mounts are secure and lubricate with synthetic grease on all railing as well as the teeth. There is a small casing that you can put all the grease for the teeth. I used the same grease as the regulator. Used half a very small bottle of Vaseline. At the very least, you should manuals not the forum on advice. It took me 5 hours after I took off the skins of the inside of the door. You might also want to use some duck tape or strong tape to hold up the window. It does not usually come down but, since you do so much wiggling. It may come down if,you're doing it alone. I did this with my 560 SEL.

Thanks for all the replies.

I got the door skin off using the paper manuals I have. I wish I had the 124 engine manual, which I would purchase if anyone has one.

I got the window free from the regulator track and it fell down into the door. Drats, took me 20 minutes to get it back up. It is now wedged in place with a screwdriver, which is being held level by two strings of packing twine tied to the handle, which have the other ends wrapped around a different window motor bolt, and are being held in place with the nuts against the inner door skin. I bet that is not how they do it in body shops, but there you go.

I ordered the regulator from FastLane, about $125, with motor. For those that have never seen their window regulator work, it has a rail sticking straight up through the inner part of the door, and attached to the rail is a small horozontal tray that holds the window. The motor is bolted to the inner front of the door, and has two pieces of cable that attach to the tray. One cable goes over the top of the rail and down to the tray, and the other goes under the rail, and up to the tray. When I would roll the window up and it would catch about 1 in from the top, I could see the top cable go taught, while the lower cable went slack, so I am guessing that something broke in the regulator post that was blocking the movement of the tray beyond that point.

I managed to snap both cables while I was trying to get the window back up, so I really DO need a new regulator now.


Jack
93 400e

Jack,
I see you did not tape the window up as I adviced you. That is why the window fell down but, as you already know a screwdriver works too. Don't worry about snapping the cables, they were going out anyways. I tried different things (lubing, bending, etc) to avoid buying a new regulator but, once they are gone, they are gone! One more warning, if you have tinted windows, BE VERY CAREFUL, the window regulator will scratch the film. Don't ask me how I know...

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J.H.
'86 300E

Regarding your warning about the regulator scratching tint:

Yes, it will.

hehehe oh well, I guess when you have an amateur doing the work, you can expect things like this.

How did you place the tape to keep the window up (in case my twine breaks?)

I usually start from the inside, tape the top of the window, go up over the top of the door frame, come back down and tape the outside of the window. I do this two times on each side of the window close to the corners. You can drive around like this, if you have to. Also, to avoid scratching the window, I cover the inside of window completely with masking tape (easy to remove). That is just enough to protect the window. It works for me.

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J.H.
'86 300E

Here are step-by step instructions.
ARI

http://www.mindspring.com/~houlihan/merc/regulator.htm

Man, thanks CJ, that will probably save me at least a half hour and uncounted cuss words. I should get a digital camera and record all my services just like that for posterity. Like the squeaky accelerator pedal lube job - argh.

Jack
93 400e, 95k, euros, clear corners, D sticker

If you run into any other problems, e-mail me. I the factory CD that we may reference.