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  #1  
Old 02-11-2006, 10:30 AM
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steering wheel bolt

I need to remove and repair speedo head on a 1984 380SL. I gave it to a shop as I had not the time or experience. Shop is telling me that they cannot loosen 10MM steering wheel bolt to remove steering wheel to proceed with repair. They, of course, tried long breaker bar for leverage. Mechanic is concerned because allen head bolt is not that deep and is afraid it will soon strip. Any ideas short of drilling it out. Thanks

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Old 02-11-2006, 11:55 AM
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Apply any of the following penetrating solvents :
Wurth-"Rost Off", Kano-"Sili Kroil",or PB-"Blaster". Let the solvent penetrate for a few minutes or longer (your determination). A sharp blow with a hammer applied to the extension bar may loosen the bolt. Good luck.
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Old 02-11-2006, 12:46 PM
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stuck steering wheel bolt

Thanks for your reply. Mechanic said he used a penetrant, I cannot remember what the brand was but it was not any of those you mentioned. On Friday afternoon when I spoke with him I suggested that soaking it good and leaving over the weekend might help. I also agree that it needs to be rattled off with some hammer blows either to the breaker bar or to the ninety degree elbow in the allen wrench. Thanks again.
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Old 02-11-2006, 01:44 PM
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waiiit, are you describing a 10mm hex bolt? i've not removed a steeering wheel
so do not know the fastener(s) used. there are hex and Torx bit sockets and
if that is the fastener you have, it would be best to use the proper bit. if you
are unable to remove the fitting using 90 hex wrench, then that is the wrong
tool to use right off. replace with hex socket.
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  #5  
Old 02-11-2006, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raymond~
...if you
are unable to remove the fitting using 90 hex wrench, then that is the wrong
tool to use right off. replace with hex socket.
Agree. Also, use whatever number of hands, knees, etc that it takes to counter the force on the steering wheel. Do NOT use the antitheft lock.
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Old 02-11-2006, 03:08 PM
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Is it really necessary to remove the steering wheel on an SL? On the W124 and W201 of that vintage, the instrument cluster can be removed (pushed from the rear via the under dash panel) without removing the steering wheel.

The 10mm bolt is a tough one. It's best done with a helper holding the wheel while using a breaker bar and extension to free it. You will never forget the sound that the bolt makes when it initially loosen.
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Old 02-11-2006, 04:24 PM
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My experience with a 560sl (w/airbag and slightly different steering wheel): it looks like it "almost" might be possible; however, I don't think you can do it without extreme effort, and even then you will certainly be bending the dash pad. At this age, it will certainly crack. Bottom line, it's a PITA, but I would definitely remove the wheel to avoid any possibility of damaging the 20+ year old plastic.
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Old 02-11-2006, 10:12 PM
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I removed the instrument cluster on my 560SL a couple of weeks or so ago. You definitely HAVE TO remove the steering wheel. I used a 1/2 inch breaker bar that is about 2 feet long. I also put the ignition key in and turned the wheels all the way in one direction (to the left I think).

I was prepared for it to be quite the ordeal, but it wasn't.

You need a hex bit, could be 10mm, but I don't remember.

Odometer stop working? That's why I removed mine. I replaced the three gears.
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Old 02-12-2006, 01:54 AM
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Try using a valve grinding compound on the end of the allen to cinch up any play. Tell the techs to use a new (ideally) allen.

DO NOT try to use the steering lock to hold the steering wheel. Best to have several people isolating the steering wheel from turning while someone, as stated above, uses a long breaker bar.

Several stout raps on the bar prior also helps.

Haasman
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  #10  
Old 02-12-2006, 08:42 AM
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The problem is that the bolt has loctite on it
It makes it hard to break loose , plus you need an extension
to get away from the wheel plus the wheel wants to move
You must hold the wheel still and hold the ratchet against the bolt so it cannot strip the allen
If I did it with the wife
I sure the shop of mechanics can
The bolt spray is not going to work with the loctite
Heat is the only thing that loosens it up , which is a no no with the wheel
It's looks like #240 loctite on mine which is not permanent and the bolt will come off
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  #11  
Old 02-12-2006, 11:41 AM
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Solo removal of 10 mm allen

I just went thru the same ordeal. Bought 1/2 " electric impact just for the job but no joy. I finally placed 2 Miami Yellow Pages and a West Marine catalog on console, used socket wrench with breaker extension set between hub and rim of wheel to the center of book pile (to support end of breaker extension), turned the steering wheel right (clockwise) while standing outside of the drivers door with my right hand on the bottom of the wheel pulling and the left on top pushing. My guess is that about an inch pound before the wheel broke, the bolt loosened.
No damage to console or wheel.
Hope this helpes.
PatO
CAUTION: Turn ignition on to unlock wheel for this proceedure - But don't forget to TURN OFF BEFORE INSTALLING AIRBAG if so equipped!
Note: It's not so much the locktite as the large surface of the bolt face so use PB Blaster and let it soak while tapping with hammer and 1/2" extension or equivalent to avoid damaging allen socket.
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  #12  
Old 02-12-2006, 11:53 AM
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I just replaced my wheel! Indeed that allen bolt was tight! Could not budge it with a regular allen wrench and a cresent wrench. I bought a 3/8 drive 10mm allen socket and used my air impact tool. I just slowly pulled the trigger and a couple of wacks of the air tool and it came right out! Was a piece of cake and yes I think there is locktite on threads. Be safe if airbag equipped and disconnect the battery cable!!!!

Smokie

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