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  #1  
Old 05-04-2006, 01:23 AM
95 S320 LWB
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Posts: 20
Question A/C Low Fan not working - W140 M104 1995 S320

Hi All:

I especially hope Jim F and MBDOC see this post...but I will of course accept all help from everyone (thanks in advance)...

I have a 1995 S320 W140 bodied, M104 engined Benz. I had a minor overheating issue on Sunday which resulted in a small t-connector near the firewall breaking and spraying coolant out. I stopped the car and opened the hood and let it sit until the tow truck came - did not lose too much coolant. I towed it to my favorite indy shop and he replaced the part and hoses and topped off the coolant. The car now runs at 90-95 degrees C consistently (very nice).

One big problem, the electric fans only come on at 105 degrees C. When I put the A/C on, they do not run at all. I have read about the pressure switch behind the driver headlight on other posts - so I checked the a/c pressure and it turned out OK, but I still had bubbles in the glass sight. So I did a minor recharge and the bubbles are now gone (yeah).

So, the electric fans are still not coming on when the a/c is turned on. I was not sure if there is a magic relay or a way to "jump" the fans to have them come on (Jim F, are you reading this?)

Any steps to solving this problem would be appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 05-04-2006, 07:02 AM
Larry Delor's Avatar
What, Me Worry?
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Sarasota, Fl.
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I think that on the 140 there is the same resistor like on my 124.

It's a big ole spring with two terminal ends. These tend to go bad at the one end. It ought to be on the drivers side, behind the headlight. Do a search on fastlane to see a pic of one.

Good luck!
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  #3  
Old 05-04-2006, 08:29 AM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Tucker, Ga USA
Posts: 12,153
first question??
Does your car have 2 white ballast resistors between the aux fans OR a skinny black tube??

IF it has the skinny black tube it needs to be modified BACK to the 2 ballast resistors.

Take a look at this diagram.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf W140 AUX FAN RESISTOR.pdf (61.7 KB, 3394 views)
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  #4  
Old 05-04-2006, 10:48 AM
95 S320 LWB
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Posts: 20
I have the tube

MB DOC,

Thanks for the picture - what is the tube? is it a temperature sensor? I am also a bit confused - are you saying I need to cut it open and rewire the insides with the resistors listed on the TSB? I can probably do that, but just checking...
So, to recap - is this a new assembly I have to build or can I modify the tube with the parts listed? (Thanks for your help!)

Last edited by 95 S320 LWB; 05-04-2006 at 10:55 AM.
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  #5  
Old 05-04-2006, 11:06 AM
JimF's Avatar
'94 S500: only 793 sold!
 
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Location: San Diego, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95 S320 LWB
I have a 1995 S320 W140 bodied, M104 engined Benz. I had a minor overheating issue on Sunday which resulted in a small t-connector near the firewall breaking and spraying coolant out. I stopped the car and opened the hood and let it sit until the tow truck came - did not lose too much coolant. I towed it to my favorite indy shop and he replaced the part and hoses and topped off the coolant. The car now runs at 90-95 degrees C consistently (very nice).
You are lucky . . . and must be a very observant person! Most stories where the infamous 'T' union broke have fried the engine! In a few minutes (or less), you could have dumped ALL of the coolant, so if you where driving and not paying attention, there would be one cooked engine!! Seen this so many times.

Other W140 owners pay attention: if you haven't replaced it on your W140, suggest that you do so.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 95 S320 LWB
One big problem, the electric fans only come on at 105 degrees C. When I put the A/C on, they do not run at all. I have read about the pressure switch behind the driver headlight on other posts - so I checked the a/c pressure and it turned out OK, but I still had bubbles in the glass sight. So I did a minor recharge and the bubbles are now gone (yeah).

So, the electric fans are still not coming on when the a/c is turned on. I was not sure if there is a magic relay or a way to "jump" the fans to have them come on (Jim F, are you reading this?
The "key" to aux fan operation are the "temperature" and "pressures" as shown in MENU#18 in the 'table' called "Auxiliary Fans Activation".

Key: Aux fans operate under two (2) variables; temperature and pressure. Aux fans always operate with temperature when you don't use A/C. If you use A/C, then 'pressure' is the key.

Using your A/C, the fans should come on a when the pressure builds to a preset point as shown in the table. Practically, there's a difference from the tables values vs real life. My car has the three (3) speed system as shown in the table. Using A/C, my fans come on at 215psi, about 15 bar.

Without A/C, the fans come on at 102C without my Cool Harness. Spec is 100C but most come on around 105C. With a Cool Harness, my fans start at 95C.

So by recharging your A/C you have raised its efficiency and increased the pressure so the fans start when the pressure reaches the indicated point. Sounds like you got your fans working correctly.

If you want to watch the pressure while driving, use the technique described in Menu#15 under “Operational Checks”. As you drive, leave the display showing “refrigerant pressure, “#7”. As you drive you will see it fluctuate from 4-5 bar to 15 – 18 bar depending on the temperature and type of driving. Nice way to see how the A/C is operating. At the same time, you can access “#5” to see what the temperature of the evaporator is producing.
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  #6  
Old 05-04-2006, 12:26 PM
Moderator
 
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The black tube on your car was designed to be a variable resistor..didn't work very long.

You only cut the WIRES at the tube & either solder OR crimp ring connectors that can be attached to the resistors.
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  #7  
Old 01-08-2007, 05:51 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
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W 140 Chassis Resistor Fan Wiring On 1995 S320

Quote:
Originally Posted by 95 S320 LWB View Post
MB DOC,

Thanks for the picture - what is the tube? is it a temperature sensor? I am also a bit confused - are you saying I need to cut it open and rewire the insides with the resistors listed on the TSB? I can probably do that, but just checking...
So, to recap - is this a new assembly I have to build or can I modify the tube with the parts listed? (Thanks for your help!)
Hi
I have the same problem but my two wire short-out and i traced to the back of headlight but I do not know where the two wires connect to.
Please if you can help me or you have diagram .emil it
yavarian2003@yahoo.com
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  #8  
Old 01-02-2009, 03:22 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1
Exclamation

Hello,

I have the same problem in my S350 turbodiesel 1995 OM603.971 engine...

The "tube" resistor acording to the EPC, is replaced with the 0001583745 resistor.... but in the draw posted by MB DOC, the tube resistor must be replaced with two resistors: the 0001583745 and 0001583945.

Is this ok? Or because my car is an diesel version is just enought one of then?.

Thanks.
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  #9  
Old 05-31-2018, 12:06 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 1
Hello Gents, I am planing to replaced my tube resistor with the ballast one but the second one has more cables than the tube, any advice how to connect them.
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  #10  
Old 05-31-2018, 03:52 PM
JimF's Avatar
'94 S500: only 793 sold!
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: San Diego, CA
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Not sure about your AC Fan system (2 or 3 speeds) but check the picture here:
https://www.k6jrf.com/R15_R151_dwg1.gif

and

read the section here: https://www.k6jrf.com/MB_CTS.html

My 94 S500 is a three-speed system. For two (2) speed I believe the "short" shown in the picture makes it two speed.
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  #11  
Old 06-03-2018, 04:04 PM
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Jim:
Looks like I was wrong. I have the two speed setup on my car. I now have to try and find out why they don't run. On my W126, I can jumper the pressure switch on my dryer and the fans will turn on. I am assuming the same is true on the W140? Harder to get to though!
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  #12  
Old 06-14-2018, 10:24 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 256
ok. Stupid Question number 2

On my W126, I can short the two wires going to the dryer switch and the fans run.

I removed the connector on the dryer on my W140, and the connector has three wiring connections. Which need to be shorted to test the fans, or can't you do this on the W140?

I also tried to remove the harness from the temp sensor which makes the fans turn onto high speed on my W126. Nothing on the W140. Not sure if something is wrong or you can't test it that way on the W140.

Anyone have any basic testing to check out what is wrong. I know the fans themselves are good because they come on when connected to 12V
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  #13  
Old 06-15-2018, 01:42 AM
JimF's Avatar
'94 S500: only 793 sold!
 
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If I remember correctly, the Aux Fans should come on when you short the pins in connector. Just to be clear; remove the connector over the "blue" sensor and use a piece of wire to short between the pins.

Give that a try and lets us know.
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  #14  
Old 06-15-2018, 06:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimF View Post
If I remember correctly, the Aux Fans should come on when you short the pins in connector. Just to be clear; remove the connector over the "blue" sensor and use a piece of wire to short between the pins.

Give that a try and lets us know.
I'll try that. On the W126, you had to short the wires on the dryer switch but simply removing the connector on the blue sensor turned them on. You did not have to short them (which is kind of strange). I will try to short them on the W140 and see if that kicks them off.

The battery looks like it is weak so I need to now also take care of that!
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  #15  
Old 11-18-2018, 12:00 PM
IGG IGG is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 1
Good Afternoon
I have w140,s350d,1995
Problem with ac, very strange
I see ac clutch is engaged and working, but no air coming at all inside
Also both fans are off
Anyone can help,please
Thanks very much in advance
Garret
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