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  #16  
Old 06-25-2006, 09:27 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: cleveland,ohio
Posts: 39
LR is drivers rear- always from how you sit in the car

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  #17  
Old 07-03-2006, 09:22 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 128
MBtech21 - Thanks, that's exactly where it was. I was looking on the passenger side.

Well, the purge valve did not solve the problem (CEL still comes on), so I've replaced the charcoal canister shutoff valve. By the way, on this model, it's in the drivers side rear wheel well, behind the liner (see pictures). I'll let you know if the CEL problem is solved in a week.

Don

PS - The MB parts guy said both of these valves are usually replaced at the same time.
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Where is the Charcoal canister shut-off valve located on a 1999 C230-img_1030a.jpg   Where is the Charcoal canister shut-off valve located on a 1999 C230-img_1027_resize.jpg   Where is the Charcoal canister shut-off valve located on a 1999 C230-img_1028_resize.jpg  
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  #18  
Old 07-13-2006, 07:40 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 128
It's been over a week now and no CEL, so replacing the fuel shutoff valve must have fixed it . Thanks everyone for all the advise, it really helped!

Don
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  #19  
Old 07-05-2012, 03:12 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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Cool Possible fix on the cheap... blinking fuel light P0455

So I had the same problem and when I tried to source the part locally, it would have taken almost a week to get. I figured I would try a quick fix and it worked so you may have luck with this as well.

First test connector at canister shut-off valve for voltage with the key on. I don't know the exact range but mine was reading 7.9v. If no voltage problem is probably in wiring or computer.

I pulled canister shut-off valve and pulled the linear motor out. It's easy. Just CAREFULLY pry the 2 tabs outward (One is under the electrical plug. You have to remove the plastic cover and the foam filter sock.) and gently remove the solenoid. There will be a spring so don't loose it. Clean the solenoid cylinder with MAF spray and a pipe cleaner. Clean the rubber valve with MAF cleaner in the plastic housing. Use something to pull the plunger in the plastic housing outward and blow into the tube. As long as it seals only when you apply pressure and doesn't when you push in, that part should be good. Lube the cylinder in the solenoid with a small amount of silicon lube. Clean the foam filter sock with an air filter cleaner and reassemble.

Solenoid seems to be durable and is just prone to dirt build up because of design and placement. I would think this should probably be serviced every 50k miles to keep in top shape. Should take about 1hr or less to do and save you $200+.

Good luck

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