I cracked the idle control hose on the right (the easy one to get to) when I removed the valve for cleaning.

So I decided to change them both hoses out since they were hard as a rock. After reading the threads dealing with changing the hoses I went ahead and did same.

The one on the left, the one that the cold start valve goes into was hard to install. I used a different clamp since I could not get the spring loaded one reinstalled.

The item circled in the red in the photo is one of the new hoses and the item circled in yellow is the screw for the new clamp.

Attached Thumbnails

 

Hi Ron... I plan to change all of the Idle valve hoses soon on my sons 300TE... any tricks or comments?

__________________
2009 Mercedes ML320 Bluetec

How hard was it to do? This is a task that is coming up for me fairly quickly, as my 300E is running pretty rough these days.

__________________
08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

Flare nut wrenches are helpful for removing fuel pressure regulator and various lines that go to it. A thin 17mm wrench is necessary to counterhold regulator when removing the large line. A lift helped since I was constantly under and above the vehicle as I tried to get the new hose in.

You remove the cold start injector valve and the other various lines in the way.

I could not fit the spring loaded clamp back on to the new hose even though I could compress it and fit it around the nipple or whatever it's called under the intake manifold, it just seemed to small. I tried and tried but could not get the spring loaded clamp on. I used a regular hose clamp. I will say this about using a hose clamp. Do not overtighten it or it along with the hose will slide off the nipple. I screwed around with the clamp way longer than I should have because I kept tightening the clamp to much. Once you reinstall the cold start vavle you will see how that helps keep the hose firmly attached to the nipple, after I installed the cold start valve I tightened the clamp just a little bit more.

I installed the hose from under the vehicle since that was the easiest way for me to kind of thread it up through the space under the intake manifold.

I've not commented on the hose on the right since it's easy and straighforward to replace.


Technically, easy but I found that execution was kind of hard because it's hard to fit that new hose that the cold start valve goes into. Maybe what I stated above will make it easier for others, but I'll say it was not that easy for me and I'm kind of an experienced DIY'er.

Excellent writeup, hopefully things will go smoothly for me. My 300E has been sitting for a while and now runs rough. I have a suspicion there is unmetered air entering from the ICV hoses and that the valve itself is probably gummed up and sticking. Lately I need to apply a WOT under load after a cold start to smooth out the rough idle and keep it from stalling. This tells me something is "stuck" and gets worked free by airflow or vacuum (or both). I believe it is the ICV, but I know those hoses will crumble when I remove it for cleaning. Where did you get your hoses?

__________________
08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

How do you clean the valve and what with?

__________________
2009 Mercedes ML320 Bluetec