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  #1  
Old 06-28-2006, 09:12 PM
Ron in SC's Avatar
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Idle Control Valve hoses changed: 300 TE

I cracked the idle control hose on the right (the easy one to get to) when I removed the valve for cleaning.

So I decided to change them both hoses out since they were hard as a rock. After reading the threads dealing with changing the hoses I went ahead and did same.

The one on the left, the one that the cold start valve goes into was hard to install. I used a different clamp since I could not get the spring loaded one reinstalled.

The item circled in the red in the photo is one of the new hoses and the item circled in yellow is the screw for the new clamp.

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Idle Control Valve hoses changed:  300 TE-icv.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 06-29-2006, 04:53 AM
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Hi Ron... I plan to change all of the Idle valve hoses soon on my sons 300TE... any tricks or comments?
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  #3  
Old 06-29-2006, 09:54 AM
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How hard was it to do? This is a task that is coming up for me fairly quickly, as my 300E is running pretty rough these days.
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  #4  
Old 06-29-2006, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
any tricks or comments?
Flare nut wrenches are helpful for removing fuel pressure regulator and various lines that go to it. A thin 17mm wrench is necessary to counterhold regulator when removing the large line. A lift helped since I was constantly under and above the vehicle as I tried to get the new hose in.

You remove the cold start injector valve and the other various lines in the way.

I could not fit the spring loaded clamp back on to the new hose even though I could compress it and fit it around the nipple or whatever it's called under the intake manifold, it just seemed to small. I tried and tried but could not get the spring loaded clamp on. I used a regular hose clamp. I will say this about using a hose clamp. Do not overtighten it or it along with the hose will slide off the nipple. I screwed around with the clamp way longer than I should have because I kept tightening the clamp to much. Once you reinstall the cold start vavle you will see how that helps keep the hose firmly attached to the nipple, after I installed the cold start valve I tightened the clamp just a little bit more.

I installed the hose from under the vehicle since that was the easiest way for me to kind of thread it up through the space under the intake manifold.

I've not commented on the hose on the right since it's easy and straighforward to replace.


Quote:
How hard was it to do?
Technically, easy but I found that execution was kind of hard because it's hard to fit that new hose that the cold start valve goes into. Maybe what I stated above will make it easier for others, but I'll say it was not that easy for me and I'm kind of an experienced DIY'er.
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Old 06-29-2006, 10:51 AM
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Excellent writeup, hopefully things will go smoothly for me. My 300E has been sitting for a while and now runs rough. I have a suspicion there is unmetered air entering from the ICV hoses and that the valve itself is probably gummed up and sticking. Lately I need to apply a WOT under load after a cold start to smooth out the rough idle and keep it from stalling. This tells me something is "stuck" and gets worked free by airflow or vacuum (or both). I believe it is the ICV, but I know those hoses will crumble when I remove it for cleaning. Where did you get your hoses?
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  #6  
Old 06-29-2006, 11:34 AM
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How do you clean the valve and what with?
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  #7  
Old 06-29-2006, 11:46 AM
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Do a search on cleaning ICV. Some members use brake cleaner followed by WD40 for lube. Soaking overnight with the ends sealed off seems to help.
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97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280
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  #8  
Old 06-29-2006, 02:38 PM
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I got my hoses from Tim at Duval Motorcars, an MB dealer in Florida. I think they cost about $25 for both and that included shipping.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=213951&catalogid=0

I just used brake cleaner to clean the valve.
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  #9  
Old 07-02-2006, 03:30 AM
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1990 300te
 
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I was inspired by Ron's DIY and decided to replace the rock hard ICV breather hoses on my '90 300te. The 1st challenge came when I tried to replace the difficult left-side hose from the underside of the car. I have just about every type of plier including the really long ones bent at various angles. I still couldn't remove the hose clamp much less figure out how in the world I was going to put it back on later. I don't have forearms like Popeye, but I couldn't fit my arms in far enough to get any leverage on the hose.

I have to tip my hat to Ron for being able to pull this off from under the car (He must be a double-jointed contortionist).After spending the better part of an hour, I decided I needed a new plan of attack. I didn't look forward to doing this job from the top.

To do the hose replacement from the top I had to remove the fuel lines, and the air intake unit that sits on top of the intake manifold. (MAF?) I would caution anyone who does is this way to use flare nut wrenches, take your time and remove the fuel lines in the proper order so as not to damage them.

In the end, it worked out to be the best solution for me. I also took this opportunity to change the motor mounts. The driver side mount is tough to get a good socket on and this made it a breeze.

When I had the air intake unit off I noticed a dark wet residue inside the intake manifold when I pulled the throttle linkage and looked down inside. I pushed a clean rag down with an extension and it was an oily residue that smelled of fuel. Can anybody till me if this is something I should be concerned about. Should I tear it back down and try to clean out or leave as is?
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  #10  
Old 07-02-2006, 09:05 AM
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I don't think I could have got the hose in from under the car without a lift.

Could that dark residue you reference be oil from the breather hose that comes off the valve cover and goes to the top of the air cleaner?
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  #11  
Old 07-02-2006, 11:02 AM
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after splitting 3 new hoses I made my own with copper pipe nipples and hose on the ends, I never minded working on my mercedes either my 300d or this 300e until this hose
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  #12  
Old 07-02-2006, 02:02 PM
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1990 300te
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Orange Co, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in SC
I don't think I could have got the hose in from under the car without a lift.

Could that dark residue you reference be oil from the breather hose that comes off the valve cover and goes to the top of the air cleaner?

I would not recommend to do this hose from under the car unless you have a lift, every tool known to man, a ton of patience, and slender forearms. Although I have recruited my 8-yr old son on several occations to reach in and hold something in a tight space, his imagination would have taken over on this one (see pic below).

My guess on the dark residue was also blow-by from the breather hose. After 120k miles, I am not surprised. Should I be concerned or leave as is?
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Idle Control Valve hoses changed:  300 TE-eel.jpeg  

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