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  #1  
Old 08-09-2006, 09:20 PM
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Location: Fribourg, Switzerland
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1) R12 and R134a sepcifc Nylog? 2) Compressor oil upgrade for R12?

Hi everybody.
Now it is my turn to change the evaporator of my 1992 300TE.
Recent success posted here has encouraged to do the job myself (thank you!).
I have all the parts ready but have just reallized that on my Nylog bottle it writes "HFC compatible". However, my system contains R12. I have learned from ackits.com that there is a R12-specific Nylog version as well.
My question: Does this difference matter? Do I need to re-order a R12-specific Nylog?
Second question: Is mineral compressor oil stil the way to go with R12 or is there some synthetic upgrade that can be recommended?
Please feel welcome to add your experience and advice.
Thanks, Bruno

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Last edited by Bruno_300TE; 08-10-2006 at 05:17 PM.
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  #2  
Old 08-10-2006, 12:03 PM
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That's the red cap Nylog, correct? I've used it on R-134a, R-12, and some blends I won't mention. Never experienced a problem. I say go for it.

There are synthetic a/c oils for R-12. Don't know that they offer any kind of improvement over good old mineral oil. The main advantage is they are compatible with both R-12 and R-134a, which permits a/c shops to stock only one oil.

From the DIY perspective you can run the system with R-134a for a couple of weeks/months to insure there are no slow leaks before risking $75 or more of R-12.

My $.02,

- JimY
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  #3  
Old 08-10-2006, 05:20 PM
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JimY
Thank you. I'll go ahead and use that Nylog I have (it has a blue label).
Also I will stay with mineral oil. And before the final R12 charge, I might use the "blends I won't mention here" to check for slow leaks.
Bruno
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Old 08-19-2006, 09:37 AM
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Done!

Hi
It took me two full days to do the evaporator job. The old evaporator was definiately leaking (see also pic). Also, quite a few vacuum elements had ruptured membranes. I replaced all of them. All the insulation foam was degraded. I put some new one that I got from Home Depot. The system holds vacuum and charge fine, cooling efficiency is much better.
Thanks, Bruno
Attached Thumbnails
1) R12 and R134a sepcifc Nylog? 2) Compressor oil upgrade for R12?-evap_old.jpg   1) R12 and R134a sepcifc Nylog? 2) Compressor oil upgrade for R12?-disassembled.jpg  
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  #5  
Old 08-19-2006, 04:00 PM
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Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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How did you know evap was bad?

How did you know your evaporator was bad? I've got my dash apart to replace vacuum pods & am now wondering should I tackle evap too.

R
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  #6  
Old 08-19-2006, 08:31 PM
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The A/C lost refrigerant, a full charge did last about 4 months. I added dye and could later find it in the condensate that came from the evaporator. Also, I could smell refrigerant in the cabin.
Bruno
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  #7  
Old 08-20-2006, 07:55 PM
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Location: Oklahoma/Missouri
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copper or aluminum replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruno_300TE View Post
Hi
It took me two full days to do the evaporator job. The old evaporator was definiately leaking (see also picThanks, Bruno
You picture confirms that the orginal evaporator is aluminum. I saw a picture of a replacement evaporator for a w124 that was copper. Was your replacement copper or aluminum?

I know this is bad enough as it is but wouldn't it be worth taking the front seats out to get more room to lay as you work ?
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Old 08-20-2006, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cressida View Post
Was your replacement copper or aluminum?

... wouldn't it be worth taking the front seats out to get more room to lay as you work ?
The replacement was made entirely of aluminum. Brand is ACM, made in Germany.
I am not sure about the seats - my guess is that it is more comfortable for most of the job to sit on the seats instead of laying on the floor.
Bruno

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