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#1
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Greetings to All,
Just letting all those that have one of the older Benz's 20 years or so old that there is hope for your big dial analog clock. After reading many post on this topic I decided to pay Radio Shack a visit and pick up a couple of the capacitors 272-1028 that will probably bring life back into your old non-working clock as well. Just remember as it wasn't mentioned on previous posts that the ground for the clock is a soldered pin that sticks through the back of the housing and must be unsoldered before you can remove the clock from it's metal assembly. Also the best way to remove the instrument cluster is to pull the lower kick panel off and push from the back. Don't forget to unscrew the speedo cable and pull the other two power connectors as well as unthreading the oil line from it's gage. Sounds time consuming, and it is, but it beats looking at a clock that takes up space and doesn't do anything. With any soldering experience with circuits, it can all be done and reassembled in less than an hour, minus any breaks. Charles |
#2
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Well done, Charles.
Its good to tick again.
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... Kerry 126 tailed by a 203, 129 leading the pack. |
#3
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Non Tickin Clock
Thanks for the info I need to fix mine.
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2000 Ford 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4 2006 Mazda Tribute 1983 Black 300 D (donated to charity) 1993 Teal 300 D (160K) Sold "I love the smell of burnt diesel fuel in the morning, it smells like ....VICTORY" Semper Fidelis USMC 1973-1976 |
#4
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I just finished this repair and have some mixed results to
report. The good news is that my SRS light was installed in the wrong hole. That is now corrected. The bad news is that my clock repair didn't work. I think I know why. When I removed one capacitor, I lost track of the positive lead. My old capacitors were labeled with a "+" sign. The new Radio Shack units are marked with a "---" sign. This is a little confusing. Make a note of the plus sign and then reverse your new capacitor to match. I did test the fixed clock and reassembled after I heard it tick. It ticks but doesn't move the clock hands nearly as fast. I will reverse the capacitor soon and try again. Once you have the dash removal took, it comes apart pretty quickly. The connectors come off easily and it goes together easily, too. Pay attention to the wires. The connections are: 1- Round multi-plug - Keyed so only inserts in one position 2- Oil pressure line - Mine was a press on rubber fitting 3- Tachometer connector - 3 pin keyed 4- Clock power wire 5- Speedometer sensor wire. Round, no trouble. 6- Labeled lamps for #2,3,5 indicated holes. 3 is SRS. 7- Rectangular plug, about 8 pins. Keyed. 8- Temperature sensor plug. 4 pins. Keyed. [Edited by vrsmith on 04-15-2001 at 11:20 PM]
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VR 1967 250SL |
#5
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I had another go at the clock today. Since it did tick, it
seemed that might be working, but a mechanical problem could be causing a problem. Took the clock out and cleaned the internals as best I could and lubricated the movement with silicon spray. It works! During the repair, I found that my outside temperature display is broken and had been covered up with a piece of electrical tape. Another minor repair to do someday. Regarding the new capacitors, they are installed in the clock in series. That is, the negative pin goes to the positive of the other. This has the effect of halving the capacitance. I don't know why VDO didn't just install a half valued capacitor. I just mention this to help people, (like me), who might doubt their installation.
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VR 1967 250SL |
#6
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Rather than half the capacity it seems like it would either double it or cancel each other out. But That's just an uneducated guess.
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Earl 1993 190E 2.3 2000 Toyota 4x4 Tundra |
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