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Old 04-15-2001, 03:00 PM
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Join Date: May 2000
Posts: 317
I own a 86 300E and recently changed all of the links in the rear of the car after recently installing Eibach springs and Bilstein shocks. What I'm experiencing is squeaking/creeking in the rear from the link area like if bushings need to be changed or something. Are there bushings back there I should change?
The other day while trying to open my trunk, the key broke off in the cylinder pretty deep. Is there anyway I can possibly get this piece out without having to drill the cylinder. I also cannot open the trunk now as you can imagine.
1986 300E
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Old 04-16-2001, 02:39 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 368
Which links did you change? From my experience the thrust arm is the one that always squeaks when old. It's the one that runs horizontally with the car and connect to the bottom of knuckle assy. If you replaced it already I would check tie rod. The tie rod has a ball joint that connects to knuckle assy. If it has excessive clearance change it. If not try adding grease to the boot. You should disconnect from knuckle to inspect for clearance and then add grease while moving it back and forth.
While your there check control arm bushings.
As for the trunk, if you locked the trunk with the key you most likely need to drill it. Try to contact a locksmith and ask for his opinion. However, I am pretty sure that he is going to tell you the same thing.

Good Luck,

[Edited by vinamg on 04-16-2001 at 02:42 AM]
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Old 04-16-2001, 08:16 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: the Netherlands
Posts: 1,417
Squeaking noises in the rear can be caused by the lower ball joint as well. Did you have that changed as well? Lower ball joints do not have to be worn to start squeaking.

1990 300SL-24
1993 C250D
with a minor 600+k kilometer
(the Netherlands)
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Old 04-16-2001, 10:30 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 2,513
I had lots of creaking from the dried out old bushings
for the sway/anti-roll/torsion (pick your term...) bar.
Changing these eliminated about 95% of the noise from
the rear suspension.

The good news is they are dang inexpensive and easy to
change. Think $5 and no more than an hour of easy work.

The sway bar bushings can really transmit noise into
the cabin. Unlike most of the rear suspension, they are
mounted to the cars body, rather than to the rear subframe,
which is insulated from the body by rubber mounts.

If you get a lot of noise when both rear wheels move
in tandem, as over a speed bump, then the sway bar
bushings are suspect.
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Old 04-16-2001, 12:54 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 223
if u broke your key, maybe the lock was already bad to begin with?
Order the new lock and have it on hand before drilling the old one out
1996 E320
2000 C230 Kompressor
1988 190e 2.3 - 225K miles, owned for 7 years. I cannot say enough good things about this car. Very well built, even at 225 it ran like new.
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Old 04-16-2001, 10:40 PM
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Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Los Angeles, Calif, USA
Posts: 521
What you need is a set of "key extractor" to got the key out. Any locksmith should have them in their tool box. One of the extractors looks like a mini saw blade. It is small enough to insert into the key hole and pull out the broken key.

Good luck

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Old 04-18-2001, 06:13 PM
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Join Date: May 2000
Posts: 317
Thanks everyone for your replys. I think the only thing that I haven't changed in the rear suspension is the swaybar bushings. I will order them soon and replace them.
1986 300E
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