I just had all eight of the hydraulic cylinders from my convertible mechanism removed, rebuilt, and reinstalled because of multiple leaks. Now when I go to operate the top, it keeps hanging up or stop moving. I was extremely careful to label and reinstall the hydraulic lines in the proper positions. The hydraulic reservoir is full and topped off with fluid as needed.

What's the magic that needs to be done to get the top to work properly after repair? What needs to be reset? I remember having a similar problem that last time I worked on the hydraulics. It seemed to work itself out after a while. I've tried everything I can think of... manually setting the top in the full up and full down position, then starting operation... disconnecting the battery in hopes of resetting the mechanism.... all to no avail.

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95 E320 Cabriolet, 169K

I'm trying to read the fault codes to figure out this problem. These are the instructions:

"Power Soft top test connection (4 pole) at Socket 2. The connection is located at the right front passenger footwell. To avoid the need for an extension cable, connect the black lead of code scanner to any good ground and red lead to a battery + source inside vehicle."

Where at the right passenger footwell is this connection located? My information tells me the X11/4 diagnostic (16-pole) connector is not used to access these codes.

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95 E320 Cabriolet, 169K

I have a diagram but reducing it to attachment size pretty much ruins it. I sent you a private message.

Dean, thanks for the attachment. I found the socket, read the codes, erased them, then put the top through its paces until it faulted. I get:

Code 10 - Soft top fabric bow "raised" limit switch

What my top does... is from the top-up position, it unlatches and raises the compartment cover, raises the rear glass, then faults.

I took the three-in-one limit switch unit out from the driver's side rear quarter and tested them. All switches work fine. There's no adjustment, and I can feel the switch click when I raise the rear glass manually to the up position.

Am I checking the proper switch?

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95 E320 Cabriolet, 169K

Fixed. I feel like a dolt. Careful as I was, I forgot to reconnect one of the electric leads to a microswitch that was hidden in the trim.

Thanks for the map. The codes from the diagnostic connector led me to the microswitch. The combination of your map, the 80 page booklet of diagnostic codes I downloaded from a member here, and the W124 CD service manual, helped me find the problem. It just goes to show that you can't have enough information for one of these cars.

The top now works perfectly.

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95 E320 Cabriolet, 169K

Hey Convertible Guys, I have an issue with my top also. The portion of the top with the rear window doesn't properly lower. It just drops like a cable is broken or detatched. I haven't tried to remove or pull back the canvas to see what's going on. Do you have any diagnostic advice?

Much appreciated, as always!

Let me run this by you guys again....

Hello Kestas,

Hope you are still around on this forum!
If anyone else has any idea what that “electric lead to microswitch hidden under the trim” is all about, please let me know!

I upgraded all my cylinders, reassembled back and am stopping at this same place. The rear bow raises but the tonneau cover doesnt close when doing a raising of the soft top and get stuck in that position.

When I do a top down operation, though, the bow goes inside the compartment, and the tonneau cover closes properly. Has to be some switch or connection that I cant find and its driving me nuts!!! Im an inch away from taking a sledgehammer to the whole car :/

Please help!

I can't remember which microswitch it was. Did you check the codes for faults?

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95 E320 Cabriolet, 169K

No, I dont know how and i think thats because i dont have the equipment.
Thanks for the reply though. My issue was exactly as you described so i was hoping you’d still be around .

I'm working from memory, but it may have been the switch that is hidden behind one of the interior panels near the back set.

If you search my posts, you may find information on how to read codes for the top using a homemade code reader. The electrical ports to plug in the code reader is in the passenger side footwell.

The code reader itself is easy to build using a momentary switch and LED light. I used an old 35mm film canister to hold everything together. The plans to build it and how to use it are also somewhere in these threads. This is the same code reader used for reading codes from the engine.

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95 E320 Cabriolet, 169K

I thought I sent you a PM on this. Did you get it? I believe I mentioned checking the hydraulic fluid level in the reservoir.

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95 E320 Cabriolet, 169K

Kestas, I didn't get a PM but you did post a response to a previous thread I started on the same issue. Above you mentioned replacing or removing your top and a microswitch. I thought you might have additional information after going through that drill. Thanks for your help.

I have checked the fluid in the reservoir and it's fine. I went ahead and changed it out with new MB fluid, since it was a relatively easy procedure, in hopes that was the problem. No such luck. Any more ideas would be appreciated. Thanks again.

If I remember, during use, the rear bow comes down rather quickly. Perhaps something came out of adjustment and the rear bow now "bottoms out" in the folding top case, causing a jolt.

I'm not sure what determines the speed at which the rear bow falls. I thought it was something regulated by the hydraulic cylinders. Perhaps one or both of the cylinders are leaking internally.

Any external leaks?

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95 E320 Cabriolet, 169K

I determined the problem with my falling top to be that the connector from the piston to the top had stripped out on one side. The connector, shaped like a keyhole, was not available as a separate part. The dealer needed $750 for the entire cylinder mechanism. I took the connector to a machine shop where they inserted a pin into the stripped threads and welded it in, then retapped it for me. I reassembled and it works good as new, at least until...

...today, when I noticed a puddle of what appeared to be hydraulic fluid on the garage floor in front of the passenger rear tire. I located the source as coming from the hydraulics, but not exactly sure of what seal where in the mechanism. I'm sure I can identify once I get in there, but can the seals be repaired by a weekend wrencher, or do I need special hydraulic parts and skills? How do you best access the cylinders? Removal of rear seat and side wall? Once removed, is it possible to repair the cylinder without special tools or parts? I don;t see any applicable parts on Fastlane.

Kestas, I know you are a DIYer. Did you rebuild all your cylinders yourself, or get some help? I see lots of W129 "front cylinder" repair posts, but I'm not finding anuy helpful information using the search function. Any suggestions from the group are appreciated!!