Radiator replacement - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Ben300SD · #1 05-10-2001, 04:06 AM

The radiator in my 300D is plugged. The temperature rises when putting the engine under a load, even at high speeds. Idling in traffic is even worse. My mechanic Al quoted me a price of $450 for the radiator, and the local dealership quoted me a price of $505. These prices are for the part only, and do not include any labor. Partshop (or maybe FastLane) carries the radiator for $373.

I would really like to patronize FastLane (and save a bunch of money in the process), and I have a reasonable amount of experience of DIY mechanic work (I drove a Suburban), but I don't know if this is a job I can handle.

Is replacing the radiator a relatively straightforward process? And if I choose to do it myself, should I flush the block before doing so?

mudditt · #2 05-10-2001, 05:58 AM

I just did one on my 300E 2.6 last week.

I was suprised how easy it was. The only thing you need try to do is put the bottom hose on before sliding the new one in. I did not and still managed to tighten the connector up using a small spanner. I also replaced all hoses at the same time, used MB antifreeze and Dextron III for the transmission top up.

I have a procedure from the Haynes 124 manual if you need it. Let me know and I will scan it in and email it to you.

I got all parts from Fastlane and paid for the overnight delivery. Excellent service.

Mike

engatwork · #3 05-10-2001, 05:58 AM

I would think this is a good diy'er job. You will want to flush the cooling system out.
Jim
'85 300D
'95 E320
'97 CRV

Ben300SD · #4 05-10-2001, 08:13 AM

Mike, if you could scan that and e-mail it to me it would be most helpful. I would really appreciate that. Thanks for you help everybody.

MBenzNL · #5 05-10-2001, 01:44 PM

Ben,

It is a fairly easy DIY and gets even a lot easier when you have the tools to remove the fan and radiator/ventilation tunnel...
If the coolant looks clean, you don't need to renew it (I left my 375.000km coolant on after I changed the thermostat O-ring a few weeks back; it was as clean and clear as new).

I have send you the license plate frame and it should probably arrive somewhere at the end of next of next week or the beginning of the week there after. I will mail you about that.

greetingz,

mudditt · #6 05-10-2001, 05:01 PM

I will scan them in tonight, whats a good email address for you ?

Mike

Ben300SD · #7 05-10-2001, 07:04 PM

Mike, bploeger@mines.edu is a good e-mail address to send them to. Thank you for your time.

Steve, thanks for following through with the license plate bracket. I will communicate with you via e-mail. Thanks a million.

dakota · #8 05-10-2001, 09:44 PM

Ben, this is a good DIY job. I would suggest flushing (a degreaser first, then citric acid) as long as your working on it, and new coolant, if the current coolant is more than two years old.

Also, you may not have to remove the fan/clutch. Some MBs have a fan shroud that can be taken off without having to take the fan off.
---
MBenz, maybe I misunderstood you, but did you say you have 375,000 km on the same coolant? The normal MB recommended change interval is 3 years, I believe. Even if it still looks clear and clean, I'm not sure it would still have the proper anticorrosion properties.

Ben300SD · #9 05-11-2001, 02:57 AM

Following the advice of one of our members, I am going to try flushing with MB degreaser and citrus flush before I replace the radiator. I know this question will make me sound like a moron, but where is the drain plug for the cooling system? I found a cap on the bottom of the radiator, but I believe there is a place on the block that I should drain from. Any advice?

P.E.Haiges · #10 05-15-2001, 03:44 AM

How about a recore job if this is possible? Recore is usually about 1/2 the cost of a new radiator and is as good as new. Possibly this is only available for the old copper radiators with brass tanks. Why did they ever go away from copper radiators? Aluminum and plastic radiatore are crap. I could see Ford or GM doing that but MB??????

Have you tried having the rediator cleaned? My radiator shop has a process where they use live steam and it costs about $30.

P E H

Ben300SD · #11 05-15-2001, 03:50 AM

Actually I had it cleaned about three weeks ago. I have thought about the possibility of recoring it, but I am going to flush it first. I plan on doing so on Wednesday. If that does not fix the problem I will take it to the shop to see if a recore is possible. If not, I will replace it myself. I have located a radiator for a fair price, and Mike sent me very useful instructions for installation.

#12 05-15-2001, 01:06 PM

Two months ago before joining this board, I replaced the radiator on a 190E 2.6. I got a rebuilt radiator that fit perfectly and looked brand new, for only $125. I got it from Reseda Radiator in Reseda, CA. They charge a $75 core charge which you get back when you return the old one. They shipped me the radiator UPS 2 day to MA for only $30. You can check them out at resedaradiator.com. I have no affiliation with them; they just havea a great deal.

Rich

P.E.Haiges · #13 05-17-2001, 02:12 AM

I saw an ad for a replacement radiator in the Star magazine for $175. Check it out.

P E H

Jim Anderson · #14 05-17-2001, 11:35 AM

I asked a radiator shop guy what he thought of plastic radiators. He said they since they came out busness hasn't been better.

Robert W. Roe · #15 05-20-2001, 05:15 PM

How does that flushing compound work? Can I leave it in for a week or two? I looked at my coolant recovery tank and the fluid is brown.. I'm suspecting a clogged radiator because my temp is at 100 deg C and goes up above 110 when climbing hills with a full load.