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  #1  
Old 05-11-2001, 02:02 PM
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Location: Santa Clara, CA
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FYI, my 126 transmission was giving me fits as it would frequently flair before finally slipping into high gear. Many times I would have to drive around town in 3rd gear as it simply wouldn't go into 4th. In desperation, I sucked some fluid out yesterday and replaced the same amount with Gunk Transmedic, which cost all of $3 and change at Pep Boys. Folks, it feels like I have a brand new transmission! The thing works just like it should. Don't know if it is going to last, but it sure feels good now. Anyone out there have any similar experiences?
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'76 240D-Sold
'78 240D-Sold
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'86 560SL 124K Miles
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  #2  
Old 11-10-2002, 10:04 PM
Scott500SEC
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did ur fix last?

just wanted to know if your fix lasted...gonna do it to my 380se....thanks Scott
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  #3  
Old 11-11-2002, 03:28 AM
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It did not last, although it sure seemed to help for a long time. I've since been getting along with cranking up the pressure by about half a turn when it didn't want to shift and that lasts for a month or so.
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'76 240D-Sold
'78 240D-Sold
'85 300 SD, 165K-Sold
'88 300 TE, 165K-Sold
'64 Porsche 356C Cabriolet
'86 560SL 124K Miles
'94 320E Wagon, 74K Miles-128K Miles JUNKED
'06 E350 Wagon, 84K Miles
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  #4  
Old 11-11-2002, 12:13 PM
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Location: Maryland. USA
Posts: 180
When was the last time filter and fluid.......

When was the last time the tranny fluid (including t-convertor) and filter were changed?
Did you use an OEM filter, was the filter gasket present and in good condition? Did the filter seat without resistance? Was it the proper filter?
Are you certain that the proper fluid was used?
Did you go with synthetic fluid? If so name of brand?
Was it changed using gravity or a power flusher?
Not sure about your tranny, but with mine (both Benz's) the vacuum modulator setting is a big deal.

Inquiring minds got to know?
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  #5  
Old 11-11-2002, 01:26 PM
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Ah, many questions:
1. Yes, after the Gunk job, I did fully drain the complete system and change filter and fluid using a non-synthetic product, Valvoline I believe. I did not detect any difference in transmission efficiency.
2. Fram filter was installed, it seated easily. The old one was in good shape and complete.
3. Gravity drain of system with front wheels elevated.
4. On my transmission, there is on the drivers side, a removable soft plastic cap or boot that gives you access to a pressure adjustment near the front side of the transmission. You remove the cap to see a metal nut with slots in it. Pull out the adjuster from the center and give it about half a revolution. For some reason this is not present on all transmissions. You can actually do this without even jacking the car up as it is accessible by simply lying on the ground and reaching in.
Good luck with yours!
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'76 240D-Sold
'78 240D-Sold
'85 300 SD, 165K-Sold
'88 300 TE, 165K-Sold
'64 Porsche 356C Cabriolet
'86 560SL 124K Miles
'94 320E Wagon, 74K Miles-128K Miles JUNKED
'06 E350 Wagon, 84K Miles
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  #6  
Old 11-11-2002, 02:13 PM
haasman's Avatar
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Location: San Francisco, CA
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Ron,

I had an '82 300SD that had similar trans problems. I used the Gunk additive as well with similar results. I was told repeatedly the problem was hard seals. I found that as the trans heated up from driving it got better.

Question: Did you drain the torque converter as well?

Valvoline now has a trans additive that helps "condition" older seals. I would remove enough ATF and add a quart. It might return the flexibilty of the seals.

Additionally, I was encouraged to check-out the vacuum modulator and the lines to it. Have you?

On our (past) 300D this was the problem.

Let us know ....

Haasman
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  #7  
Old 11-11-2002, 06:11 PM
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Yes, I drained the torque converter when I did the change.
Sorry, I just checked and it was not a Valvoline I used, but another blue container of Dextron III/Mercon made by Chevron. I will give the new conditioner a try when I get the engine back in the car, hopefully next week. thanks for the tip. I looked at the vacuum lines and they seem to be o.k. and with the pressure adjustment, it works fine so I think it is another case of hard seals rather than a bad modulator.

It seems to me that a true fix of this common problem should not involve a $1500 overhaul. Anybody got any real knowledge of how to inexpensively change out the seals?????
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'76 240D-Sold
'78 240D-Sold
'85 300 SD, 165K-Sold
'88 300 TE, 165K-Sold
'64 Porsche 356C Cabriolet
'86 560SL 124K Miles
'94 320E Wagon, 74K Miles-128K Miles JUNKED
'06 E350 Wagon, 84K Miles
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  #8  
Old 11-11-2002, 06:43 PM
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Ron,

Mercedes also has factory rebuilt exchanged trans. They come with warranties.

Try calling Venisi at Park Ave Motors in Palo Alto. Tell her Jeff told you to call her. 650-494-6653

Haasman
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'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)
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  #9  
Old 11-11-2002, 06:57 PM
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The inexpensive way to replace seals is to not pay labor.

The trans rebuild or seal replacement (requires total disassembly)is 11-12 hours on top of the 5-6 hours for R&R. Obviously removing 17 hours at 65 an hour or more from that 1500 wittles it right down.
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  #10  
Old 11-11-2002, 07:33 PM
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The total dissassembly of the transmission is well within my capability, but since I seriously question the re-assembly of it, I guess I'll have to leave it to the pros. Thanks for the input Steve.

Jeff, hopefully I won't need another trans. for a while, but I appreciate the referral.
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'76 240D-Sold
'78 240D-Sold
'85 300 SD, 165K-Sold
'88 300 TE, 165K-Sold
'64 Porsche 356C Cabriolet
'86 560SL 124K Miles
'94 320E Wagon, 74K Miles-128K Miles JUNKED
'06 E350 Wagon, 84K Miles
Reply With Quote
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