thats an awesome number. I totally didn't think to measure from there.




I don't suppose there are any electronics involved with this system eh? no switches, relays, fuses? I'm not really sure how to test to see if the pump is actually running. I don't know if the valve body is good or not ( are they really prone to failure? any other way to test?) but even so I'd still expect to hear the pump go under load. any other ideas on where to go next?

Hold on. I just measured. I'm at 14" 5/8 in the rear and about 15" 3/8 up front from wheel cap center to bottom edge of fender??

I found the "12.75" and ".5 f/r diff on another Benz site. Manual only appears to have data for using alignment tools. (As if DIYers have them). I don't know if the number is accurate. I was hoping a pro would confirm or correct me.

I don't suppose there are any electronics involved with this system eh? no switches, relays, fuses?
___None of the above. Only hydraulic pressure (with nitrogen gas in accumulators).

I'm not really sure how to test to see if the pump is actually running.
___Fluid will flow through resevour. Disconnect return hose from resevour, and continually add new fluid to flush system. It self purges any air in lines.

I don't know if the valve body is good or not ( are they really prone to failure? any other way to test?)
___Manual has procedures for presssure testing and as overnight procedure to ensure it's holding pressure. "Level controller" has very good rep for longevity.

but even so I'd still expect to hear the pump go under load.
___It uses the Power Steering pump _ but two different fluids are used!!! Because Power Steering pump is runnig constantly, I doubt you'd hear any different sound under load. Rear height should change within moments of turning on motor.

any other ideas on where to go next?
___We're both in the same wagon. Ride height of mine is similar to yours with little change loaded. I felt the handling was better when my accumulators weren't working properly. The handling of mine feels worse with the rear so high.

Do you mean the owners manual? I'm gonna go look right now. I've just gotta get this thing to level itself.

Not in Owners Manual. I' referring to the Model 124 Maintenance Manual (a 2CD Set)

1988 300 TE 280K miles. I'm dealing with the same problem. Replaced rear shocks and accumulators but getting no pressure from pump. Does pump then need replacement or is it fixable? I see that this part is not available through this shop. Any comments appreciated.

i have found that sometimes the feed line to the pump gets blocked.take out the level dipstick and using a rag see if you can pressurize the tank with compressed air.this should start the pump running again.

__________________
David S Poole
European Performance
Dallas, TX
4696880422

"Fortune favors the prepared mind"
1987 Mercedes Benz 420SEL
1988 Mercedes Benz 300TE (With new evaporator)
2000 Mercedes Benz C280
http://www.w108.org/gallery/albums/A...1159.thumb.jpg

Thanks for the info but tried that and to no avail. New pump coming I guess.

so get this. I went to the level-oil reservoir and opened the lid while the car was running. You have to be careful not to get oil everywhere as the return line is in the lid. Anywho it very obvious that there is movement of oil. you can clearly see the oil coming into the the tank. So I suppose that means that my pump is working. Which I suppose leaves no other component except the valve body. I don't have the CD manuals, is the procedure for pressure testing the valve body on the forum anywhere?

kirke333
AutoPartsGuru shows rebuilt PS pump w self-leveling @ $446 OUCH. I'd try used through car-part.com

AtlBenz
I don't know if the test procedure is on the forum. I can email you "32-0530.pdf" (324k) "Testing pressure oil pump and level controller..." It notes nominal pressure at level controller of 133 bar. There are 2 other pdf specific files and many more relative ones. Unfortunately, there's a lot of redundancy and the info has specs using MB alignment tools. Ironically, in one sentence it mentions the fender lip to center of axel measure. But I've never found actual numbers.

My inde's alighment rack is not avail, so I'm gonna take mine to a speciality alignment shop and have tehem check mine.

ok.ive been wondering for quite some time what the star to fender lip dimension should be.mine runs around 15" both rear wheels.does this means my rear springs have sagged?

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michael cole 1980 300SD gone now but not forgotten,87tdt,90 300te 4matic 95 e320 wagon

hey mike, if you saw a post of mine, you'll see that mine are around 14.5-15" unloaded. I'm beginning to think thats kinda where these wagons are supposed to sit unloaded. my problem is that it wont STAY there like its supposed to once I load it up.

my wagon seems to ride right without a load but i recently picked up a pile of laminate flooring at the good ole homedepot and noticed the rear did not self level.the car will go up and down however if i manually operate the valve lever.perhaps the valve internals are shot

__________________
michael cole 1980 300SD gone now but not forgotten,87tdt,90 300te 4matic 95 e320 wagon

My understanding from comments on this and other MB lists is...

With engine off, load cargo, rear end drops due to heavy load. Turn engine on, pump activates self leveling and rear end rises to unloaded height. You can manually operate system with controller with engine on and rear will go up & down. However, if there is a problem in the system, it will not rise with cargo loaded. I think the test (cargo) weight is 300 lb.

If rear doesn't rise with loaded cargo, then one or combination of: [1] Leaking "fill" hose located under the resevour (most likely & cheepest thing to fix), [2] Leak in any of the lines or fittings, [3] Leaking accumulator(s) (very likely $200 for 2), [4] Bad pump (PS & Self leveling in one), [5] Bad controller.

If fluid is low, there's a leak in the system. Simple test of accumulators is ... turn on engine, partially remove fill cap containing fluid return hose - if fluid is foamy, nitrogen is coming from bad accumulator(s). This cap contains a thin mesh cylindrical filter about 4" long. You must use Febi #2615 Hydraulic Fluid, and put it into the resevour. Only Power Steering fluid goes into the PS pump.

Bob

Bob: thanks for the email. I'm gonna see what I can do. See below.


Chas: I just got home, had 377lbs in the bed. ride height went from 14.5 to 12.5 with car running. when I turned off the car, ride height stayed at 12.5 loaded. which implies to me that the LL wasn't doing it job.


A couple tool questions:

the fittings that hold the oil line on the valve body. what side are they? I remember being told there were "oil fittings" which apparently means that its some crazy non-metric size.

obviously i need a pressure gauge - holy smokes, I just did the conversion. I need a gauge that reads 133bar....um...that equals 1929psi......yikes. I hope I can find a gauge that reads that.

I'm not sure where to get the specific parts. It says I need the connector, union and test hose. it gives me numbers like (038) and (038g). I'm assuming those are some kind of internal tool numbers or something. how do I convert that to autozone/pepboys numbers?