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#1
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Level Load? (PICT)
here is my 95 E320 wagon. 115k odo.
There is 400lbs in the bed. To me, the car looks like its sagging. I was under the impression the load leveling suspension was to prevent this sagging. the accumulators were recently changed, new oil in the system and a valve put in (not a "new" one) . System was bled of course. so is what you see normal behavior? PICT (kinda big) Last edited by AtlBenz; 02-05-2007 at 05:33 PM. |
#2
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Needs a password
The linked picture will not open without a passcode. I received a message stating, "You need a username and password to log on to this FTP server." If you PM me, I might be able to help (owner of '94 and '99 E320 wagons).
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#3
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On my 92 TE there’s a linkage that goes from the level control unit to I think the torsion bar lever that can be adjusted..
When I put one of those cargo baskets in the receiver for the trailer hitch and loaded it with an empty tool chest I was bring to my father in law the rear of the vehicle sat to low. I adjusted the linkage, made it shorter, to raise the rear end so vehicle would be level. When I came back from bringing him chest I set linkage length back to where it was. |
#4
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Quote:
oops sorry. i fixed the link. you should be able to see it now. |
#5
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bump
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#6
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the linkage for the leveling of the rear end is clamped to the rear sway bar and has been known to move.it's mainly designed to be the upper limit by pushing down on the lever arm on the valve.loosen clamp bolts first then with car on ground crawl under and slowly move clamp so as to move arm on valve upwards.caution------if you move it too far you will pump susp so far that it will act as though the rear accumulators are gone.
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David S Poole European Performance Dallas, TX 4696880422 "Fortune favors the prepared mind" 1987 Mercedes Benz 420SEL 1988 Mercedes Benz 300TE (With new evaporator) 2000 Mercedes Benz C280 http://www.w108.org/gallery/albums/A...1159.thumb.jpg |
#7
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ok so, when I get under the car, I see the little link or whatever that connects between the valve and the sway bar. Is it totally okay to undo that link and actuate the valve manually so long as I dont over do it correct? I assume the car has to be running.
But all in all it does seem like come correction is needed right? the suspension should be holding those 400lbs level. |
#8
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Obviously motor has to be running to maintain ride height.
Otherwise, rest of advice is right on.
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Kent Christensen Albuquerque '07 GL320CDI, '10 CL550. '01 Porsche Boxster Two BMW motorcycles |
#9
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yes you can get it to the correct height doing that but when you achieve correct level move lever on valve back to middle position[to stop going up] and then see what corrections you have to make to hold lever in centre position[when at right level].
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David S Poole European Performance Dallas, TX 4696880422 "Fortune favors the prepared mind" 1987 Mercedes Benz 420SEL 1988 Mercedes Benz 300TE (With new evaporator) 2000 Mercedes Benz C280 http://www.w108.org/gallery/albums/A...1159.thumb.jpg |
#10
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nice looking wagon.mine has the same issue so im interested in your resolution
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michael cole 1980 300SD gone now but not forgotten,87tdt,90 300te 4matic 95 e320 wagon |
#11
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I assume I have to have the vehicle loaded eh? prolly pointless to try to adjust that little linkage with the bed empty.
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#12
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New Findings!
okay dokay, I'm gonna keep posting in this thread so as to not clutter up the forum with redundant threads.
so, while the wagon is off, has no load in the bed theres an approx 2" gap between the top of the tire and the wheel arch. its very approximate but its gonna be my control. I load up the bed with 300-400 lbs. the gap diminishes to like 0. the top of the tire is at or beyond the level of the wheel arch. so I turn the car on. I am ASSUMING the bed should raise up to somewhere close to the non-load, engine-off height. It doesnt. I unload the bed and put the rear wheels on ramps. measure again and my approx control height of 2" is still there. I load it up and the bed lowers as expected. I start the engine and as before expect it to rise. it doesn't. Now i creep under the car and detach the link between the control arm and valve. I rotate the lever-arm on the valve expecting the car to rise and lower. From what I can see, there doesnt appear to be any movement of the hydraulic shocks. questions: first off, am I correct to assume that the vehicle should obviously raise and lower in a fairly immediate fashion? with both weight and manual operation of the valve lever-arm? secondly, whats next? new valve body? Lastly where is the pump that drives these hydraulics? should I be able to hear or see it working? The valve body used to work and I find it hard to believe that such a simple valve would suddenly fail. BTW there are no oil leaks and theres plenty of oil. |
#13
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I am not so sure it is an immediate thing. I have a 16v with a hydro rear end. I also have the little link on the sway bar and the whole shabang. Any way, when I was bringing home about 400 lbs of tile home it took a bit of drving (maybe a mile or 2) for the rear end to come up. I seemed to think I could feel/see it comming up when I was driving home.
Have you checked to make sure you have presure at both shocks? If it does not raise up after you are drving, that would be my first suspicion. As for the pump location, mine is powered off the front of the engin off the exhaust cam. Your might be different but you should be able to trace a line off the hydro tank under the hood to the pump.
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Sent from an agnostic abacus 2014 C250 21,XXX my new DD ** 2013 GLK 350 18,000 Wife's new DD** - With out god, life is everything. - God is an ever receding pocket of scientific ignorance that's getting smaller and smaller as time moves on..." Neil DeGrasse Tyson - You can pray for me, I'll think for you. - When you understand why you dismiss all the other possible gods, you will understand why I dismiss yours. |
#14
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I tried this on my E320 wagon. Even with defective accumulators the back end rose and fell when the level valve arm was operated. It also made noise and bogged the engine slightly at full lift. The FSM suggests not holding this for long.
The pump is in the power steering pump housing. |
#15
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Someone will hopefully correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the correct measure at rear is 12.75" from Star center (wheel axel) to fender lip. And should be .5" lower than measure a front wheel.
Bob |
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