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#1
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My 1985 190E shows all the signs of a bad temp sensor. That is, virtually no acceleration after cold start and bogging under wide open throttle even when hot. After two sensors and repairing the wiring to the sensor, I still have the problem. Fuel pressure (system and control) are both within specification, and I find no RPM drops when using the spray bottle intake air leak tests. Compression is middle range. Idle mixture has been set hot to about 7.2mA. Here are the questions:
1. Is 4.9 volts from the computer (vs 5.0) enough drop to create this issue? 2. By installing a manually variable resistor, and forcing the EHA to extremes, that is showing it > 2500 ohms and <50ohms from the sensor I get an improvement in performance for a couple of days. Is this a happy accident, or am I doing something to the EHA or fuel distributor that shows where the problem really lies? 3. Bypassing the sensor with a jumper wire gives me a 1500 - 1900 rpm neutral idle, a stumble from dead stop in gear, 41+mA at the EHA, and wonderful top end performance, which would seem to me to discount the sticking valve problem posted earlier. Am I seeing this correctly as indicating a computer problem, or is there another test I can perform to rule out computer perofrmance? |
#2
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Unfortunately, just replacing stuff in the CFI is expensive. Does your car accelerate OK under medium throttle and have a pronounced bog as soon as the full-throttle switch is closed? If so, I bet a wooden nickle it's the EHA.
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#3
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I expierienced the same problem before.
Its the Leaking EHA and the ign.coil. No problem since.Hope this help. Clauser1 |
#4
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Bogging and other mossy issues
In answer to benzfan, yes, WOT is completely missing except when bypassing the temp sensor, and immediately after the previously mentioned artificial exercising of the EHA. A few years ago, on a '80 Volvo 240 with the standard K-tronic, also known as CIS (which, despite the official Bosch name, really stands for Cursed Injection System) I got a load of very contaminated fuel with enough micro silt to plug the fuel distributor, enough non-petroleum additives to corrode the injectors, and enough water to ruin the fuel pump. I did a complete teardown of the fuel distributor and removed all trace of contamination. ( I know, we can't disassemble a fuel distributor, but I did it anyhow and it didn't leak afterwards, though it's not something I'd recommend doing without a spotless work area and serious patience.) The question that arises from that experience is whether or not the EHA is subject to the same types of corrosion/contamination, and if so, is it possible to clean it?
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