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Old 06-06-2001, 03:39 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 177
Hello everyone,
Earlier in the year I had some creaking and rattling coming from my rear suspension so I took it in to the dealership and they replaced the right rear lower control arm bushing for $250. Of course the labor was most of it. Anyway, now the same damn creaking is coming from the left rear suspension. I know it is the same problem because it makes the same noise from the same location. I don't really want to spend $250 more dollars to fix a creak so could anyone tell me how to do this myself? I already know how to take the wheel off, unscrew the control arm (from some other rod), and then try to grease down in there where the bushing is but it's pretty tight and hard to do. Then I work the control arm around in the grease. This has worked a few times but this time it didn't and it got worse. So far the bushing starts acting up when I'm on the highway during really wet conditions or hot conditions for an extended amount of time. Any help on either greasing it better by telling me how to disassemble it better or replace the bushing all together will be saving me much $$$ and time. Hope to hear some responses! Thanks, Scott
Scott Chaffin
Homepage devoted to my 190E:
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Old 06-06-2001, 07:32 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 177
Anyone? Please!?
Scott Chaffin
Homepage devoted to my 190E:
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Old 06-06-2001, 08:35 PM
engatwork's Avatar
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Soperton, Ga. USA
Posts: 11,878
Scotty before you go to too much

more trouble try something (if it is applicable to this car) - replace the "link" that connects the sway bar to the suspension arm and see if that helps. On my 300D I replaced this piece and it eliminated the "creaking" noise I was experiencing. This part is cheap and easy to replace. Just remove the wheel, unbolt the old link and bolt up the new. Again, if this is applicable to your car, this item can cause some noise when it is worn out.
'85 300D
'95 E320
'97 CRV
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Old 06-06-2001, 09:13 PM
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Suwanee, GA, USA
Posts: 4,712
In the rear of a 190 there is a sort of ball joint. That is most likely what needs to be replaced. It is on the outer side of the LCA and connects to the spindle support. I haven't replaced one in a couple of years, so I don't remember what tool is needed.
Donnie Drummonds
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Old 06-07-2001, 12:25 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Posts: 412
First of all it is probably the outer bushing in the lower control arm at about $ 63.00 each. You need a coil spring compressor, or a safety chain to contain the rear spring while you extract the bolt and figure out a long bolt and thrust piece to extract the bushing from the rear knuckle. The part is like a ball joint without a stud. It has a permanently sealed joint that has been filled with grease from the factory with sealed boots.
1990 190E 2.6
1996 Grand Voyager 3.3
1985 Mustang GT 5.0 5 SPD
1982 Suzuki GS 750T
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Old 06-07-2001, 03:31 AM
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Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 203
On my 16v it was the inner LCA bushing that was causing the creaking, as seems to be the case with yours. I did this (mostly) myself, and it was a major pain it the buttocks. There was no way with the tools I had to extract/beat out etc. the bushing. Apparently there is a special tool just for this, although it is like $500 so not practical unless you have a fleet of 190e's. What I ended up doin was taking the whole lower control arm off ( 4 bolts basicly) and taking it to a shop to have them change the bushing. They tried pressing it out with a 20 ton press but it didnt budge. Then they melted all the rubber away with an acetalene torch and knocked the rest out with an air chisle, so you can practicly forget getting it out while its on the car. Then they pressed the new one in. This cost me $20 so quite a bit cheaper for you than the $250. On the rear spring you dont have to use any type of compressor. After the car is jacked up the spring is basicly loose. I had the car on stands and put the jack under th LCA, it came down like an inch until the spring had no tension at all on it, so its safe. You have the bolt for the inner bushing, the outer one, the sway bar, and the shock, fairly straight forward. It takes under an hour to get it out and same to get it back in. I was so relieved with the loud creak gone Good luck!!!
1993 300D 2.5 Turbo
1987 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3-16(M103-3.0)

1990 300D 2.5 Turbo(sold)
1987 300SDL Turbo(sold)
1987 300TD Turbo(sold)
1987 190D 2.5 Turbo 5sp(sold)
1985 190E 2.3-16(sold)
1984 500SEC(sold)
1984 230TE(sold)
1978 240D(sold)-Miss it!
1972 280SE 4.5(sold)
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Old 06-07-2001, 01:23 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 177
Thanks for the replies! It turns out a bolt had come loose on the anti-sway bar link.
Scott Chaffin
Homepage devoted to my 190E:
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