I have owned this car for a year and I have been working on it when I have time. I am just now ready to put it on the road but still have several small things to repair. It was always easy to start until a few weeks ago. I am sure it is not getting enough fuel on startup. If I remove the breather cover a pour a small amount of fuel into the intake it will fire right up. I did drive it a little yesterday and it ran smooth. If it sits for a few hours it is very hard to start. It does not seem to be weather related. When I press on the flap in the intake I do have resistance but it is only pumping air no gas. Any suggestions as to the cause?

Problem #2. I was told something was killing the battery when I purchased the car. I I checked every circuit with a multitester. Circuit #2 was drawing to many amps to measure. I removed the fuse and overnight the battery was fine. Circuit 2 has the clock, radio, hazzard warning system on it.The radio is new so I don't think it is the problem. The clock does not work all the time so I think it is the problem. Can I unplug the clock without unplugging the tach? They are on the same instrument cluster.
Thanks for all the advice.

For problem #2, most likely it's the power antenna that keeps working.

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The power antenna is unplugged. The drive motor works, but will not operate with the button or with radio. I think the curcuit board is bad.

I have exactly the same problem with my 1984 190e. It's like the fuel drains all the way back to the tank and I drain the battery when I try to start it. (Might be related to problem #2) I have to turn it over several times before it evens wants to start. Once it starts it runs fine. Fuel filter? Pump? I don't know. I'm hoping you get an answer. I just had to replace the battery and don't want to ruin this one.

I changed the fuel filter and the check valve. Car does run smoother, but was hard to start this morning. Will be looking at cold start valve soon.

We are just ready to replace our fuel filter and read your post. We will probably do it anyway, but are eager to find out what really causes the problem. Keep us posted and I hope the filter does it for us, but it sounds like we have the exact problem.

Has anyone checked the 10 amp fuse on th OVP relay located behind the battery? This fuse controls the cold start injector, I found a bad relay on my 86 300E.

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Thanks, Nels
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86 300E
93 W250 4X4 Cummins Power
72 F250 Highboy
89 S-10 408ci BBC
custom V Four Chopper
77 Peterbilt 352
83 Jeep CJ-5

It is hard to start when cold. My in laws mechanic tried to clean the idle control valve. Did not work
I switched the cold start valve with a known working one and no gas is sprayed from the valve.
There is pressuer to the valve, how can i make the valve open manually?
I can put a cap full of gas into the intake and it will start right away. Once hot there are no issues.
The trouble shooting suggests changing the thero-time switch. Where is that? How can I test it?
Changed the plugs, wires look good I still have to check the cap and rotor.
Does the car have a obd2 connection to check for error codes?

Also the EHA is leaking, should I replace it or just change the o-rings?

thanks for the help in advance.
Have to be careful of all the plastic and rubber parts there are very dry and can break easily.

The cold-start injector only fires when the temp is below 60F or so.
So, be sure it's cool enough for the computer to turn it on before condemming it. To make it fire manually, just unplug the connector and hit it with 12V. Poor initial start above 60F can be traced to several things, but injectors are always the first suspect. If you turn the key on for a few seconds, then off 3 times before starting, and it improves, check for retained system pressure, the accumulator or check valve leaking, or a clogged filter (unlikely).

DG

edmatu, from my experience a crack in the EHA black plastic causes leaking gas so the EHA needs to be replaced. Recommend removing the air filter assembly when the engine is cold, then start the engine and closely inspect the EHA for leaking/weeping gas. You would be fortunate if new "green" O-rings resolved your leaking problem.

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Fred Hoelzle

This the results after turning the key on and off 4 times, it still takes about 10 attempts to start and stay running. it will idle very slowly and if you press the accelerator it will stall.
I will change the gas filter and once I get the gaskets remove and clean the ejectors and replace the EHA O-rings. If I still have a issue I will change the accumulator. I will post the results once completed.
Thanks for the help.
Ed.

Update
T replaced the EHA and the leak is no longer a issue, but I still have a problem starting.
I checked the thermal time switch and there is a low ohms reading, and it stays the same when the car is warming up. the cold start valve is never getting any power to help start. OAT 40 degrees. I but power to the cold start valve manually while starting the car cold and the car started while tapping power to the valve. once the car is a normal temps it will run ok. anyone know the part number for the thermal time switch, its a 4 prong censor.

Thanks
Ed.