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  #16  
Old 02-09-2008, 08:58 PM
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Location: Seattle
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I just attempted this job and ran into some trouble. I have to assume that the 2000 Manny worked on is different than my '98. The main problem I have is the sheetmetal shield behind the brake disc (not sure the exact name of this, shield plate?). It is obstructing my access to the ball joint ends to put my remover tool on. I was BARELY able to get one of my pullers on the horizontal end. I used a standard type that looks like a little horseshoe with a screw through the top. I could not use the one I thought I would use because the locator pin on that end of the ball joint was getting in the way. Anyway, I figured once I got the horizontal part loose I could pull the knuckle away giving me access to the vertical end. However, guess what got in my way?? Yeah, the shield plate again. It has a little bump molded into it which would not allow me to pull the knuckle away. Also, I could not see what the tie rod end had to do with anything so I left that installed.

It is my opinion that to do this job I have to remove the disc and then the shield plate behind the disc and THEN I can get the access I need to do the job.

Does anyone have any input on all of this?
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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra
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  #17  
Old 02-10-2008, 07:15 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Ontario, Canada
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The shield is called a dustshield or splashshield.
As I said before, unbolt the tierod end and get it out of the way.
Undo the back-facing nut holding the horizontal part of the balljoint, undo the nut holding the vertical part, then you can press the balljoint out.
I used a scissor-type balljoint remover for this.
If you want, I can mail you the tool, but it is available anywhere for about $ 30.00.
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  #18  
Old 02-10-2008, 02:26 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2004
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Hi Manny,

I am not tring to argue with you but I am no spring chicken and I think I know what I am talking about. I have 3 different pullers including: the scissor type, the horseshoe type I mentioned, and also the other kind that is hard to describe but looks maybe like a kind of clamp. Anyway, I still do not see what disconnecting the tie rod does. What does it accomplish? It is not in the way of anything.

Second, although I did get the horizontal part with the locating pin apart, I don't see how you could use the scissor type tool there since the locating pin gets in the way of inserting it.

Third, there is no way to get any tool on the top nut with the dust shield right next to it. I have to assume they changed something between the 98 and 2000. I wish a professional would chime in on this.

What is the width (outside dimension) of the "fork" end of your scissor tool and what is the inside dimension? Mine is 47mm on the outside and 19mm on the inside.
__________________
1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra
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  #19  
Old 02-10-2008, 03:08 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 3,160
I don't consider this an argument, after all, you're not my wive.

The dimensions of the tool used are, 47 mm outside & 26 mm inside.
When I removed the tierod, it allowed the hub to " flop " around more, giving a little more freedom of movement.
I remember using the seperator tool only to push the balljoint out of the vertical part.
The splashshield clearance was tight, but the tool itself still fit .
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2007 C 230 Sport.
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