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Old 03-05-2008, 08:32 AM
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Location: Milford, DE
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What symptoms is your car exhibiting?

Unless you have been a regular participant in the Paris-Dakar rally it would be hard for me to believe that your car needed such an extensive list of front end parts after 82K miles. I recently went over the front end of a 98 CLK320 with over 215K miles and the only components that showed significant wear were the outer tie rods - which were replaced for $25 per side IIRC.

While I have not had any problems with my ball joints I have heard that ball joints are a problem on the W202 chassis car.
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Old 03-05-2008, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimFreeh View Post
What symptoms is your car exhibiting?

Unless you have been a regular participant in the Paris-Dakar rally it would be hard for me to believe that your car needed such an extensive list of front end parts after 82K miles. I recently went over the front end of a 98 CLK320 with over 215K miles and the only components that showed significant wear were the outer tie rods - which were replaced for $25 per side IIRC.

While I have not had any problems with my ball joints I have heard that ball joints are a problem on the W202 chassis car.
At 70-80 mph, it feels like tires are out of balance. Now -- my tires currently need replacing and, I'm sure, are out of balance. But...when they were newer and confirmed in balance, I still had that "vibration" that I'm describing but to a lesser extent.

I'm going to get new tires, get them balanced, change the steering damper and see where we are. I am going to visually inspect the boots and bushings while I change the damper.
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  #3  
Old 03-05-2008, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brookspw View Post
I'm going to get new tires, get them balanced, change the steering damper and see where we are. I am going to visually inspect the boots and bushings while I change the damper.
I think you have a good plan, I'll offer a couple of additions.

1) When the tires are installed have the wheels checked for lateral and radial run out - Over the years I've found quite a few bent rims and while you can balance a wheel/tire combo on a bent rim it won't produce a smooth vibration free ride. I can't remember the exact specification but IIRC anything more that .015-020 run out is not acceptable.

2) Ask the person that is going to install your tires what kind of balancer he is planning on using - and how he is going to mount the wheel to the balancer. The best solution is dynamic (two-plane) balance that uses a "pin-plate" mount to attach the wheel to the balancer using the lug nuts to apply the mounting force. High-end tire shops will have this equipment and know how to use it. Insist that after the wheel is reported to be "in-balance" by the balancing machine that the operator removes the wheel from the balancer and remounts it 90 degrees from the first location - then re-check the balance. The wheel should stay in-balance when mounted at any position on the balancer - if it doesnt something is wrong.

3) At the risk of staring a flame war about tire brands I've got to say that over the years I've found high-end Michelin tires to require the least amount of weight to balance out - and they seem to stay in balance for a longer period of time compared to other brands. I know they are absurdly expensive but they are all I use on my cars.
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98 Dodge-Cummins pickup (137K)
13 GLK250 (157k)
06 E320CDI (341K)
16 C300 (89K)
82 300GD Gelaendewagen (54K)
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