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#1
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Hello- my drivers side rear window doesnt go up or down (stuck in the closed position) I was reading about dirty contacts- could my single console rear window switch be bad? Dont they all go out at the same time? Note) the rear switch doesnt activate it either. I was also told that very rarely do these motors go out. On the rear panel, when removed there are like 5 wires connected in a row. are those the window power or the seat belt retractor. I am afraid to mess with cause of the cost of the retractors if faulted. thanks for insight,..
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![]() Timothy Evans TimEvans35@gmail.com CELL 310 990 6780 1985 380 SL ![]() 2010 CL 6.3 AMG ![]() *2009 CL 550 Sport 4matic ![]() New addition-1984 380 SE ![]() Newest Edition 1986 300E AMG ![]() |
#2
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cdplayer
Hey Tim. Those wires you speak of connected in a row link the seat belt connectors and the rear window switch to power.
Nothing wrong with loosening them up and retighten them just in case there is residue built up. The power to the regulator motor is supplied through two wires. A lime green and black wire. If you can locate these, use a battery charger for your power supply and connect the clamps to the wires directly. You have a 50/50 chance of connecting the wires so the window(if the motor is not burnt)goes down. There will be some spark at the clamps but it's ok. If the window tries to raise more, just reverse the wires to the clamps. What you are doing, is bypassing the window relay and window switch. If the window lowers, reverse the wires to raise it back up. This does not solve your problem. Just reduces the choices. Since both the rear window switch and the console switch do not activate the window, check the child lockout switch. This is the button between the front and rear console switch for the windows. If it is broken, then the window stays put. If you can lift the dual switch set from it's resting place disconnect the wire plugs noting their relative positon. This would be a good time to open up the switches and clean the gunk out from inside. You will be amazed at the amount of #$*&% in there. I use a letter opener slipped into the side toggle loop to disengage. Very carefully. Then the other side. Reassemble and see if the window works now. Yes? Great. You are done. No? Bad relay. Check fuse box for window relay. I have been collecting extender parts in the past few weeks. I will be listing them soon upon my retirement next week. Motors, wire harnesses, window switches, pressure switches, brain boxes, and the extender arms themselves. Suddenly there are 5 SEC's to tinker with. Haven't seen one in over a year around here at the "yards". I also have both rear regulators with motors and both glass windows left and right. Run into a problem? Send me another message. And we will go from there. Have a great day. Dan(cdplayer) |
#3
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I had a similar problem ,my rear window went down, but not back up. The rear switch was dirty, I cleaned it and it works fine.
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
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