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Old 09-07-2001, 05:49 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Colleyville, TX
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Question 92 190e 2.6 - How to remove front bumper

Howdy Folks,
I am stumped. Has anyone removed the front bumper from a 92 190e - chassis 201. I was in the process of removing the radiator, got all the hoses & screws out except for the bottom 2 or 3 screws. I can't see the screws and so tried removing the bumper. However I cant see any screws that fasten the bumper. Please help. Thanks
92 190e 2.6 99K
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Old 09-08-2001, 09:22 PM
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Suwanee, GA, USA
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I can take off the bumper it 15 minutes. You take off the 4 big nuts with washers from in fron of the tires under the fenders and the two side mounts and the bumper will fall off and hit you in the foot. (be sure not to forget to take off the outside temp probe)
Donnie Drummonds
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Old 09-08-2001, 11:46 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 838

Does that same bumper configuration on the 190 apply to a '91 300E as well? I looked around under there and did see some bolts and the 2 side mounts, but saw some clips as well. I'm assuming those clips attach the bumper guard to the shell?

I'll be replacing the front bumper cover assembly soon, as its pretty torn up.

Thanks for your help!

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Old 09-09-2001, 03:49 PM
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Location: Lathrup Village, Michigan
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I just took off the front bumper last night on my '89 190E. I too, had to remove my radiator.

Disconnect the temp probe behind the liscense plate. Then remove the nuts on the inside of the fender in front of the tires. Then there are two nuts on the outer side of the connection to the frame. The bumper should pull off.
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Old 09-09-2001, 10:49 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Colleyville, TX
Posts: 225
Thanks very much for the advise. About ten minutes after I posted it in the forum I was able locate the bolts, 2 on either side. As Benzmac said, it almost fell on my feet. After that I removed the radiator. But let me tell ya folks, the Dailmer Benz engineer who designed the radiator mounting process on this car should be tortured before being killed. Sorry folks, I had to get this out of my system. Anyway, it is much easier to work on the belt tensioner after the radiator is removed. I am replacing the fan clutch bearing which is why I originally started on this project. Then I noticed the damper shock was shot and figured might as well replace the tensioner. Waiting for parts to arrive. I will post a detailed set of instructions on replacing the tensioner & fan clutch bearing for future DIYers. It wasn't as bad except for that screw behind the radiator that holds that transmission hose down to the base of the radiator. Again, Thanks Very Much for the help.
92 190E 2.6 99K
86 BMW 325E 141K
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Old 09-09-2001, 11:20 PM
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Location: Lathrup Village, Michigan
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I had to use a dremel to cut a slot through the clamp holding the transmission line to the bottom of the radiator. (last night) The nut holding it in place just rotated and stripped the plastic mount!Then I used a screw driver to pry it apart, letting the tube go. While lifting the radiator out, the protrusion had to be threaded between the fan blades.

It would be easier without the fan, but you can't get an allen socket on the part. There is not enough clearance between the cap screws and the radiator.
Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
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