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#1
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1993 300ce New Tumbler, Won't Start
I just replaced my ignition tumbler... prior to replacement the car was running fine around 1 year ago according to my aunt. When I put it all back together, I reconnected the battery and it was drained so I jumped it, and when I got back in the car to turn it over, The alarm was set off. I heard some sort of Relay clicking under the dash and a red light on the left of my knee panel near my headlight switch blinked repeatedly. The alarm went off eventually, the red light and relay took much longer to stop.
The red light no longer blinks nor do I hear the relay clicking, or alarm. I have tried several more times to turn it over again and It did not start. The ignition will go into position 1, 2 where I get all electrical functions (windows, doors, seats roof, lights on instrument cluster.) I am wondering if this is an issue with the alarm still being engaged or if I have somehow messed up the ignition when replacing the tumbler assembly...I did have to shake it and beat on it to remove the tumbler... Any suggestions greatly appreciated. James |
#2
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Just to clarify... when turned over past position 2, the starter does not engage, so the problem is that when I am turning the key, the starter does not crank the engine over.
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#3
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You have a No Starter activation, not a no start condition..
..so, use the search feature and use " X27 "
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A Dalton |
#4
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This morning I went to try again, the battery was totally drained. I jumped it, and no alarm sounded but i cannot get the flashing red light and relay clicking to stop. I have locked and unlocked all the doors, Don't know how to get it to un - activate.
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#5
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Check fuse 5
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A Dalton |
#6
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I read some on the archives about that, fuse 5 is alive and well.
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#7
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Quote:
Did you read the X27 test I mentioned??? That is where you start testing.
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A Dalton |
#8
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Arthur, I am deep charging the battery to rule that out. I am experience the buzzing noise many people reported in the archives. I thought this was a normal function. It seems this is some sort of low voltage indicator so I am charging the battery to rule that out. I will run the x27 test after i spin all the fuses.
thank you for your replies and previous posts, very helpful. James |
#9
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<< I am deep charging the battery to rule that out.>>
Very good.. Any and all test will require full battery voltage ..
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A Dalton |
#10
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OK here is the update: I put a fully charged new duralast gold battery in the car, spun all the fuses, locked and unlocked the doors. No go. I jumped the connector to the started near the brake canister on the inner fire wall, and it cranked over. I then jumped the 4 prong connector x49 i believe it is. I jumped 3 and 4, nothing happened when trying turning key. All throughout these tests i have performed, the red alarm light continues to blink as does the turn signals up front. I believe that whatever is causing the alarm to not un-activate is the culprit...Ideas? Thank you
James |
#11
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I am now able to jump the car using a jump wire to the middle pin of the 3 pin connector near the brake fluid resovoir. I have searched this and other forums Hi and Low and see no similar problems relating to the alarm light blinking on the left of the dash... I feel this is the root of my problem. Any suggestions to getting the alarm to disable?
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#12
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Your condition indicates you have a bad k38 relay or no power to it [ fuse 5 or 6]
You may want to eliminate the K38 by by-passing it.
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A Dalton |
#13
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I have replaced fuses 5 and 6 and tested them with the light at the connectors as well. I also have bypassed the k 38 via jumping 1 and 3... Still no start. I will try all of these again as this really does seem to be the issue. thank you again for the direction.
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#14
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Hold On.......
I just brought up that schematic and it is different than the other 124s. The correct fuse on the Coupe is Fuse "B"..not 5.. But regardess, if you jumpered 1 and 3 of k38, that would eliminate K38 circuit .. Did you take the relay right out and jumper ??...if YES, then here is the next test: Take k38 out and test for 12v at pin # 1 of the relay socket [ this would be where relay terminal # 87 would plug into ] WHEN the key is turned to start position...if NO, the problem is feed from the Ign sw. Report that finding.
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A Dalton Last edited by Arthur Dalton; 10-02-2008 at 10:38 PM. |
#15
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I have also replaced fuse B. When i am jumping the k 38 relay, I am pulling it out and jumping the 1 and 3 male prongs. Will remove K38 and report. Also... i was probing under the dash and the clicking relay sound that will not go away when ever the key is in the ignition in any position, is the K 38... does this normally make that clicking sound when blinking the red light or is this a faulty unit making?
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