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  #1  
Old 11-01-2008, 07:41 PM
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Question 300 E very very hard to start only when cold

1992 300 E engine is very, very hard to start only when it's cold. Once it does almost start it stumbles and dies. When it eventually does finally start it will idle fine.

Starts fine when warm or hot. Always idles fine and does not stall.

I have two 1992 300 cars so I've so far swapped out OVP and MAS sensor. Plugs, distributor cap and rotor, filters all seem fine.

What might I try next?
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  #2  
Old 11-02-2008, 08:18 AM
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check word cold start valve... voltage in cold start on valve
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  #3  
Old 11-02-2008, 11:43 AM
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Accumulator - near fuel pumps and fuel filter in rear.
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Old 11-02-2008, 03:40 PM
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I second the accumulator. Depending upon how long you can go without it giving the quirky starting behaviour, you should know how big a leak it has. Mine had a pinhole size leak and caused the engine to spin at least 10 times to start on a cold morning.

-Troy
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  #5  
Old 11-02-2008, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Accumulator - near fuel pumps and fuel filter in rear.
That may be but this engine was doing the same thing in the car I removed it from before I put it in this car. Both cars are 1992, one a 300 E and the other a 300 TE.

How can I test the accumulator?
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  #6  
Old 11-02-2008, 08:12 PM
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Possibly coolant temperature sensor?
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  #7  
Old 11-02-2008, 10:50 PM
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This is the kind of stuff that makes me leery about buying a 300E.....
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  #8  
Old 11-02-2008, 10:59 PM
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The old CIS-E cars ('91 and older?) are pretty simple, and will most always run if the fuel pump and ignition works, sometimes it is getting it to run well that can be challenging. Problems are relatively few and easy to chase using a test light, good DMM, and resistance substitution box.

The later 104 cars though, a lot more parameters affect the engine's health, including its many self-protecting and limp-home features.
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  #9  
Old 11-02-2008, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
The old CIS-E cars ('91 and older?) are pretty simple, and will most always run if the fuel pump and ignition works, sometimes it is getting it to run well that can be challenging. Problems are relatively few and easy to chase using a test light, good DMM, and resistance substitution box.

The later 104 cars though, a lot more parameters affect the engine's health, including its many self-protecting and limp-home features.
Thats good to know. I guess I know who to go to when mine isn't running right.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 73k - mine - (OC-75,000)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 5k - wifes (OC-10k)
'01 E320 Wagon - 157k - mine (OC-160,000)
'89 420SEL 166k - mine (OC-167,000)
'01 E320 - 166k - dad's (OC-171,500)
'07 E350 Wagon - 128k - dad's (OC-132,500)
'01 SL500 - 48k - dad's (OC-52,000)
'09 E350 4matic Sedan - 118k - Brothers (OC-117,000)
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