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  #16  
Old 08-12-2009, 09:26 PM
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Has anyone paid for an engine transplant? I have a $3,000 quote for a m103 and am looking for an opinion on that. It's either that or buy a new Civic or Corolla and get $4,500 clunker cash for the 300ce. I'm thinking it's probably time to bail.

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  #17  
Old 08-12-2009, 09:32 PM
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I would be sure of the diagnosis first, but yes, clunkering it would make more sense to me than paying for an engine replacement.
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  #18  
Old 08-12-2009, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by babymog View Post
I would be sure of the diagnosis first, but yes, clunkering it would make more sense to me than paying for an engine replacement.
Well, if done by ones-self it could be completed for under $1000...including a good used engine....
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  #19  
Old 08-12-2009, 10:14 PM
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Like the one in Dorr?
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  #20  
Old 08-12-2009, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
Like the one in Dorr?
Where are you located? I have a 300E parts car that you could get the engine cheaply from. 1990 M103.

You can use a long screwdriver with a plastic handle as a stethescope, Hold your ear on against the plastic handle and touch different places on the engine until you find where the ticking is the loudest.

See if the oil pan is simply dented in. If so, it could be taken off and hammered back, or go to a body shop and see if they would pull it out with a unispotter.
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  #21  
Old 08-13-2009, 07:48 AM
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Have you had the engine compression tested? A bent rod will have shortened the stroke. A low compression pressure in one cylinder may indicate a bent rod. Also the oil pan could be removed to inspect the rods if you are'nt convinced.
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  #22  
Old 08-13-2009, 01:03 PM
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Bent connecting rod appears to be the diagnosis. I have decided to have the original engine repaired rather than replacing it or clunkering the car. Cost will be ~1,600 - 1,800.
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  #23  
Old 08-13-2009, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
Like the one in Dorr?
Indeed.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #24  
Old 08-13-2009, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gld1203 View Post
Bent connecting rod appears to be the diagnosis. I have decided to have the original engine repaired rather than replacing it or clunkering the car. Cost will be ~1,600 - 1,800.
For $1600-1800 you can get like three good used M103's.....unless the motor in your car has real low miles or has recently had work done (head rebuild etc...)....I'd have to say it'd be more cost effective to replace the motor.

In fact, you could probably buy a used engine, have the head rebuilt, and put it in the car....for that much $$.

Just sayin.....
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #25  
Old 08-14-2009, 10:02 PM
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Man, I am really surprised that you were able to hydro-lock the motor with so little water, assuming the water actually caused this.
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  #26  
Old 08-16-2009, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinypanzer View Post
Man, I am really surprised that you were able to hydro-lock the motor with so little water, assuming the water actually caused this.

Remember, the point of reference is his daughter.

As the father of three, I would not take any one of their explanations as gospel.....

Jim
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  #27  
Old 09-06-2009, 12:45 PM
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I got my car back from the shop on Friday. The #4 connecting rod was bent and the bottom of the piston was broken off from collision with the crank. These were replaced, and while the engine was apart I had additional work done:

- replaced timing chain and guides
- replaced oil pump chain guide
- replaced head gasket (obviously)
- replaced fan clutch bracket (bearing was bad)
- replaced fan clutch assembly
- replaced trans oil cooler hoses (they had been wet on the outside for a long time)
- replaced Nissens radiator with Behr (I bought it > 1 year ago and had never put it in)
- new crankshaft seals
- replaced all cooling hoses
- new fluids (obviously)
- new trans filter

The engine is dry and tight, and sounds and runs better and smoother than it ever has (at least since I've owned it for the past 4 years). I hope I'm through spending for a while, though.

I highly recommend Steve Zimmerman Technical Services in Mobile, AL. He uses genuine Mercedes parts, and was very meticulous and reasonable with labor charges. I stopped by his shop during the course of this repair and he pointed out the hone marks inside the cylinders, which he though was incredible for an engine with 161k miles, saying it looked like a 20k mile engine. I am the 3rd owner of this California car. Owners manual shows Mobil 1 was used when it was new. I have changed oil every 3k, but don't use synthetic.

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