Hi all;
Last week I offered info regarding how to make your own blink code tool,instead of sending out sixty e-mails I'm going to post it here.
visit your local Radio Shack store and pick up these two parts
#276-270A (12v red L.E.D.) and 274-271c (solderless banna plug set),the only other thing you'll need is a short piece of insulated wire.
attach the black connector to the black wire and the red connector to the red wire along with one end of insulated wire(strip it back about 13mm)
The other end of your wire should also be stripped back 2mm.
The example I will use is an 88 560sel a/c system as that is what started this whole thing.
locate x11/4 connector(on the firewall near mono valve)
Plug the black connector in #1 and the red into#7,with the key "on" touch the exposed end of the wire to ground for three seconds and release.the led will blink any where from 1 to 57 times.
One blink means no fault,if it blinks more than once write it down
check for the next code,keep doing this until the first code is repeated.
Touch and hold the wire to ground for seven seconds to erase codes.
Instead of listing all the different codes on this forum I recommend that anyone intrested in using this tool order the DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE REFERENCE GUIDE through M.B. publishing.
MF

Good one , Mike
I can add a little to that, if you don't mind.
The addition of another part, RS 275-1547, will aid in ease of use.
This is a momentary switch . [ miniture.]
Here is a wire diagram and also a pictoral .
Feel free to use this as a plan for your own and modify it to suit .

In the pic, you will notice I use a clear plastic test tube w/removeable lid. [ drug store].I mount the sw in the lid and exit the banana plug leads out
a hole in the bottom. I button it up with a right angle spark-plug boot for lead grommet. [ best to melt exit hole w/hot wire to prevent plastic cracking]
The unit can be assembled/soldered as a unit and then slid into the tube and pop on the lid.
The hand /thumb for switching is natural and makes for one handed operation.
This is second generation, so it has been tested out by some of the members and they have sent back favorable results. The first used a clear film can, but was cumbersum.
Have fun....

http://members.aol.com/ajdalton7/ctool.jpg

http://members.aol.com/ajdalton7/led.jpg

Thanks Mike

Brian..(the 560SEL that started the whole thing.

Hello Mike,

Does this blink code system tool also applies for my 1980 model 450 SL ?

Thanks for your reply

Gunter

Sorry guys; this tool applies to 88 year model and later
MF

The circuit which Mike explains is between pin 1 and 7. Also where is the LED and its polarity in this circuit. Arthurs circuit is different and uses pins 3 and 1. Can someone clarify the correct one.

thanks

__________________
SANDEEEP
89 300SEL
230,000Km

In my original post I was responding to an a/c problem,pins 1 and 7 are correct only for testing a/c diagnostics.
It would take a week and probably violate copywrite laws to list every application and pin location,That is why I suggested that you contact M.B. publishing to buy trouble code guide.
MF
PS. Maybe Partshop sells this book?

They are both correct.
The pin sockets that are used in diagnoses depend on the vehicle.
My diagram just happened to mention #3 cuz it was for a 190E.
#1 is usually ground, but the other depends on which code system the car uses.

So the tool can be used not only on all pulse code cars, but also the different systems of each car .
[ in other words, the different pins - i.e.- emmisions pin, ABS pin, A/C pin, etc.
The other advantage to having this tool is it is also used to erase a codes.......

Hmmm,
Can I use this for my C280? I have the round plug connection (for ABS, SRS, Climate Control, etc) under the hood too.

!? THANKS!

__________________
2006 E350 w/ 155k miles (Daily Driver)

Previous:
1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles
2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!)
1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI)
03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's)
2006 C230k (Dad's)
1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's)
2000 C230k Sport sedans
2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's)
1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!)

David;
I have not researched this enough to answer honestly,But I believe ypur C280 uses a different input to initiate diagnostics.
I will post info as soon as am certain.
MF

David,

make one up per Art D's instructions except that you need to have the 'small' pins that mate with your X11/4 connector. After doing that the power and ground pins are:

Pin 1 = ground
Pin 3 = +12V
----------------------------
Pin 19 = Diagnostic Module
Pin 6 = ABS Module
Pin 7 = EA Module

Go to my page, menu #2, scroll down until you see the X11/4 'schematic' and pin definition that's just below it. All of the different ECU pin connections are listed there.

Got enough data to buiid it? Let us know.

__________________
Regards . . . . JimF
-------------------
'94 S500 Cpe

Visit my Mercedes Web Page

Thanks, Mike, for all the help.

Mike

Hey Jim F,
Maybe you and Art D can market this
item W/Full instruction for various models.

Manny,
Had thought about it after making a few for some local techs
and a couple of members/friends, but the hassle marketing them would be , as Mike Freeman said, the code chart numbers
would stagger your mind.
Too many models to make it worth while.
But a nice little tool for the DIYer guy. That is why I listed it along with the schematic. Easy enough to make your own and all parts are RS - off the shelf.

and Art has also made it. But there's a number of different configurations that would have to be included to make it 'universal'.

Some MBs have the small square version diag connector with compatible bananna plugs but some have the "round" version that require a small pin, etc.. Some have battery voltage available at the connector, some require a jumper to the battery to get power, etc..

Anyway, I'm thinking about it.

__________________
Regards . . . . JimF
-------------------
'94 S500 Cpe

Visit my Mercedes Web Page