ok i finally am getting around to fixing the bad valve in my 260e and im waiting on the tool to take my head bolts off in the mean time i thought id ask if i should get my head inspected at a machine shop to check if its warped when my car was running the oil didnt mix into the coolant and as far as i know it didnt use up to much oil the car has 122000 miles on it and the only known issue was that the fith cylinder was getting zero compression any sugestions would be appreciated thanx and o ya if theres any other way of taking the head bolts off without buying that 30 dollar special torx bit let me know thanx

I asked my parents that same question when I was a child. Then they sent me to shrink.

You have a bad valve, but has it caused any damage, such as the valve seat or the valve guide? What about the rocker arm? An inspection would be a good idea. If a valve seat issue is present, do a complete valve/seat resurface. Also check the guides. Now would also be a good time to replace all the valve guide seals; they're cheap OE items. In the end, if the head is going to a machine shop, have them check it for warpage.

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Don't Chrome them; polish them

If it's already off, take it to a machine shop - but do your homework.

For example, I can get a set of heads cleaned, checked, tested & resurfaced for $250 at one place, $400 at another, and a whopping $700 at yet another shop; and the kicker is, the first shop puts out, by far, the highest quality work and has the best equipment (and the most experienced staff).

If you can't find a shop that specializes in MB's, head down to your local speed shop and ask who they'd recommend for real high horsepower stuff - ford, chevy, whatever; then call them. Odds are they'll have the people and know-how to do whatever you need if they've been around long enough.

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A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608

Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL.

My wife suggests that quite often.

Make sure the machine shop is comfortable doing MB valve guides.

Thanx for the information il deffinatly get it inspected as far as Ik no damage wad done but I really won't know until its off il be taking it off sometime next week just waiting for the tool to take them bolts off I will let you guys know the status sometime next week thanx guys how do I check if those valve stems and guide are bad

It's not a torx bit. NAPA 12mm Serrated Wrench, part # SER2306, $7.09 + tax. It's a 12 point (triple square) that you can use with a 1/2 '' socket. This worked out great with my 1/2'' drive breaker bar and a 1/2'' 6 point impact wrench socket.

I taped the 12mm wrench to the socket so it wouldn't fall out when I was going from bolt to bolt.

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1993 190E 2.3
2001 SLK230
1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible

I honestly wouldn't even care finding out if they are bad or not. The fact is they degrade and leak and if they have never been done before, 10k miles from now they could start leaking and you'll be kicking yourself for not doing it right while the head was off. Pay the extra $200 in parts and get it done and you wont worry about them for 100k+ miles. The stem seals harden up and leak and the valve guides leak in general. The stem seals can bandaid leaking valve guides so just because its not leaking, does not mean both are fine. One could be bandaiding the other.

Just get the valve guides and seals done.

For reference, I paid $220 for a reskim, clean and pressure test and installation of guides + seals on my 103 head. I provided the parts. He did an incredible job so shop around if you can.

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

Can anyone tell me how to get that pin that's n. The timing chain out

The timing chain or the guide pins?

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1993 190E 2.3
2001 SLK230
1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible

nebraska190E - If you're near Lincoln, I've used the CarQuest machine shop on West O St several times with good experiences on BMW heads and I've seen Mercedes heads laying on the counter, so I think they'd be a place to check with. No affiliation.

To get the pin out you need a slide hammer.

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

Thanx iv took the head off one of the valves had a hole n it ordered the parts today and I live in Lincoln I will definatly get ahold of carquest thanx guys

That pin is fun...
Slide hammer wont fit... no space.
Find a bolt that fits the internal thread, find a long socket that is larger than the giude pin... Crap, was gonna use words... but here is a pic that will make more sense...
One socket, a bolt, and some washers or a nut, or both...







Thread the bolt into the guide pin and tighten... it will pull up againt the socket.... the little sucker will come right out!

The socket, bolt and nut/washer may not be what fits... I dont remember which ones, but thats how I did Ps2cho's pin(Im his Dad).
I think you can grasp how this works...

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2009 Mercedes ML320 Bluetec

ok everything checked out as good there was a chunk that was took out of the valve thats why i got 160 compression all around and 0 on that piston iv ordered everything and should be assembling it next week will let you guys know how it goes thanx for all the advice its been almost 6 months since ive drove my baby

this is going to sound kind of retarded but im havin a hell of a time compressing the springs and taking the valves out any sugestions im using a valve compressor