Need to replace the left turn signal bulb in my 91 300TE 4Matic. Trying to get the instrument cluster out, using the instructions found here: http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W124InstCluster.

Went to free the speedo cable as directed, and found mine wasn't connected as shown - it was free, there is no tension (a good 3-4" of play).

I've been able to get the cluster to pull free, but can't move it out more than 1/2", and only one side at a time. Feels very much like it is attached to something in the back, more or less centered on the cluster. Pulling on the cluster is NOT pulling hard enough on the speedo cable to move it.

I pulled the left side AC vent for additional access - basically got nothing more out of that than confirming that I've been pulling hard enough (and cluster is moving enough) to convince myself that the cluster is attached to something, not just 'stuck' in place.

Dropped the knee panel to try and get access to the back of the cluster from the bottom - nope, can't get there from here.

Any suggestions? Ideas? What else do I need to disconnect, and how do I get to it?

Thanks in advance!

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1961 220b: first project car - sold.
2000 CLK 430: first modern Benz - sold.
2001 CLK 55: OMG the torque!!! - sold
1972 280SE 4.5: Baby Gustav
1991 300TE 4Matic: Gretel the Snow Bunny - sold
1978 300SD: Katz the Free Man - given away
1980 Redhead: Darling Wife

When you say the speedo cable is free do you mean that you've found the cable end unscrewed from the rear of the cluster or that it appears free because you have 3-4" of slack and the cluster has moved that distance forward?

The speedo cable is attached by a serrated screw collar to the cluster at its center rear. Its unscrewed counter clockwise. Then the round multi-pin connector of the left hand rear side of the cluster needs to be unplugged. With those things disconnected you can get to the other things easily.

You should have already telescoped the steering column out or rearward as much as possible to give you the clearance between the dash's upper overhang and the wheel.

Sorry - should have been more clear. Thanks for asking....

The speedo cable is still attached to the dash cluster - I can't move the cluster forward far enough to get at anything attached to it.

The 'loose' I was referring to is the speedo cable as it runs up from the floor, along the steering column, and up under the dash. The instructions I linked to indicate removing the cable from a clip along the steering column is step one. Got that done. Cable has free play - but I can't get the instrument cluster to pull forward more than ~ 1/2".

Steering column is full rearward - not that the wheel is an issue at this point - not anywhere close to it yet

__________________
1961 220b: first project car - sold.
2000 CLK 430: first modern Benz - sold.
2001 CLK 55: OMG the torque!!! - sold
1972 280SE 4.5: Baby Gustav
1991 300TE 4Matic: Gretel the Snow Bunny - sold
1978 300SD: Katz the Free Man - given away
1980 Redhead: Darling Wife

You have to first make certain that you've pulled the cable as tight as you can where it comes thru the firewall, you need every millimeter of slack you can get, then grasp both sides of the cluster and pull it straight back gaining every millimeter you can. You pull straight back until just before you think the cluster will break!
The cluster is tilted either left or right; I usually tilt the left side forward and disconnect the multi-pin circular plug with a small thin screwdriver used to carefully pry the connector off the pins. Then you can more easily (a relative term) reach your hand behind it to unscrew the speedo cable collar! Yeah it is very difficult to get your hand in there and yes the amount of force you might need to break that collar free will challenge your thumb and forefinger strength! The one caution is with the cluster tilted either left or right be careful that you don’t gouge or create a dent or crease in the dash surrounding the cluster area. The side and back edges of the cluster have some sharp edges and if you lever the cluster over too hard you can screw up the dash’s vinyl covering. I usually drape a terrycloth towel or something like a sweatshirt around the cluster’s back side and edges to avoid that problem.

That is why some people try to remove the left hand vent and then the hose behind it is pushed out of they way so you can reach over to the cluster, I've never been able to get it done that way, some people say they've been able to reach from below I’ve never been able to do that either!

Wait until you have to put things back together and reattach the speedo cable screwing the collar into place then getting your hand out!

There is a metal surround inside the cluster opening that sometimes hangs up the cluster when pulling it out. Just keep pulling on the cluster and it will free up. Happens to me once in a while too..........there are two small metal ears that hang out the bottom left and right side of the cluster and they will get hung up once in a while........not a big issue............

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1989 300E

2005 Acura TL

2011 Hyundai Elantra Limited

Swing hard! Take chances!

On my 87 W124 I could not get the cluster out either , acted much like yours. What I did was make a piece of tin about 2X5 inches and slide it in above the cluster in the center. This allowed the cluster to pull out quite easily. My dash was catching the back of my cluster as has be said already.
No guarantee it will work for you. Good luck!

On my 260E by the brake pedal under the carpet there is a "hook" that keeps the speedo cable from getting caught in daily operations. Freeing it from this might do the trick.

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

Finally got a chance to get back to the cluster..... and got it out.

Not sure how much of the difference was a 30* increase in temperature (from 20* to 50*) making my hands more capable and how much of the difference was a 30* increase in temperature making plastic bits more malleable.....

But the only difference between last week's dead stop and this week's "ok, yeah, it's starting to give, here she comes!" was the warmer temperature.

FLAPS didn't have the right bulb (turn signal indicator) so I picked one up this morning at the local dealer. Sheesh - $9.58 for a light bulb!

Thanks to all for your suggestions and guidance.

__________________
1961 220b: first project car - sold.
2000 CLK 430: first modern Benz - sold.
2001 CLK 55: OMG the torque!!! - sold
1972 280SE 4.5: Baby Gustav
1991 300TE 4Matic: Gretel the Snow Bunny - sold
1978 300SD: Katz the Free Man - given away
1980 Redhead: Darling Wife

Hello all,

After unsuccessfully wrestling with a w124 instrument panel removal for 30 minutes on a vehicle where that had never been done, and cutting a finger in the process (sharp edges on the homemade coathanger tool), I decided to try some lubricant. I didn't want to use anything that would leave residue, so ended up using an 62% ethyl alcohol-based waterless hand cleaner from Safway called "Instant Hand Sanitizer" which come in a 32oz pump bottle. I used a putty knife to gently pry up the pad a couple of inches above the area where you use the coathanger tool and use the pump to inject a couple tablespoons of this goop. It quickly starts to liquify and runs down the left and right outside of the cluster exactly where it tends to bind. After application I waited a minute, tried again, and the panel popped right out. The goop cleanes right up with a dry cloth, and leaves no residue.

Hope this helps!

Late to the party...but if the cluster has never been removed...it's a pain. There's all sorts of old goo/adhesive that you have to overcome to get it out (I did it without releasing the speedo clip) just gotta keep wiggling left and right for awhile. After that first time....it's a breeze for future removals.

Tsharples...those are good tips!

Even if this is an old thread, I will add some notes as I'm right now in the process of optimizing the cluster of my 1987 W124 250D, manual 5-spd transmission (European model).

- The first steps, before anything, is to get under the car. Unhook the speedometer cable from two clips located on the transmission. No need to disconnect the cable from the transmission. This will give the necessary "slack" to the cable, which will be needed to provide hand room to unscrew the cable nut at the cluster. Failure to do this may cause the speedometer needle to "jump" as the pulling force will yank the cable. If the undershield on the transmission area is in place, it will need to be removed to unhook the speedometer cable from the clips.

- Review and disconnect the clip which attaches the speedometer cable by the pedals' area. This will continue to provide the "slack" needed for the cable.

- Once the two steps above are done, then start using the cluster pulling tools. There are 5 clips that hold the cluster at the back, which are not visible. The cluster also has 4 rubber feet, 2 above and 2 below, which help both holding and sliding. To unstick the cluster from the clips, use a small flat metal spatula, carefully, in order to not damage the dash's tolex. This operation is intensive and requires quite a bit of care and patience.

- Because of the slack already provided to the speedometer cable, it should be much easier to pull the cluster out enough to use the right hand (left-side steering vehicle) and insert it behind the cluster to unscrew the nut holding the speedometer cable. (Before repositioning, spray lithium grease so that screwing the nut back in place will be much easier).

- What I personally did, before disconnecting anything, was to label each of the cables connected to the back of the cluster. This way I knew which bulb goes where it originally belongs. The 16-pin plug connector to the fuel/oil/temp gauges pulls out, but if it is the first time it will be firm enough, carefully pull it out.

- I removed the 4 clips that hold the cluster from the back. I am also in the process of optimizing the rough metal edges from inside the dash so that the cluster can slide out easier if further servicing is needed at a later time.

- Replacing the halogen bulbs with LEDs is a chore. While the overall lighting and bulbs from the right side (on sockets with cables) can be easily replaced (there are suitable bulbs available from SuperBrightLEDs), the ones from the signal green arrows and the warning indicators ("idiot" lights) on the left side use special halogens which are soldered to their bases (Osram 2721MF with B8.5D base). It required me to go on a search for the LED bulb with that specific base.

- Installation is the reversal. Make sure that all cables are connected and both 16-pin plug and the speedometer cable are attached. Push the cluster back into place, then do not forget to reattach the speedometer cable at the pedals and to the clips on the transmission under the car.