If it were the temp sensor, would the temp. gauge in the dash be inaccurate? because it seems normal. I have not tested the ICU yet, Im hoping it doesnt come to that.

It will sometimes restart after it stalls depending on how warm it is, but generally you have to let it cool down again to get any kind of load on it (put it in Drive).

No, there's a different sensor for the gauge in the instrument cluster.

Good advice from mak on the fuel and OVP relays. Both can develop bad solder joints, just enough so that they break contact as they flex from heating up. So, they seem fine when cold, but unpredictable when warm. They should both be considered routine maintenance items for replacement, along with plugs, wires, cap and rotor, air and fuel filters.

__________________
1988 California version 260E (W124)
Anthracite Grey/Palomino
Owned since new and still going strong and smooth
MBCA member

Past Mercedes-Benz:
1986 190E Baby Benz
1967 230 Inherited from mom when she downsized
1959 220S Introduced me to the joys of keepin' 'em goin'

There are only 10 kinds of people in the world--those who understand binary and those who don't

As an update: the fuel filter was replaced and it seems to run better now, however still with issues. Once warm, it can be driven but stutters off the line, if you were to apply pressure on the pedal conservatively it will die, but if you really get on it it will take off, sputtering until it reaches 1000 rpm and then will run perfectly. it certainly seems to be a fuel issue.

Under 1000 rpm once warm is where the issue stands and is very consistent.

does this sound like an ovp or fuel relay issue? if so, can you help me a little more with details on their location and testing. I realize the ovp is behind the battery, but which is it? also, which pins do i jump? it is very hard to see inside their sockets.

also, does anyone know how to test the MAF?

thank you all very much for your help!