|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
500E M119 timing chain rail replacement question
Hey guys,
I was working on getting my spare 500E motor ready when I noticed the top of one chain rail was snapped off - see attached photo. It's the upper, inside rail, the one which is the same on left + right sides, part number 119-052-11-16. My question is, what is required to replace these rails? I can't find the procedure anywhere in the W124 CD-ROM, nor the WIS. I assume it's one of those things that MB thinks is so simple they don't have to explain it, but for someone like me who has never done this, I could use a little guidance. Do I just need to remove the camshaft gears / adjusters, pull the chain out of the way, remove the locating pins, and the rail pops out? I really do NOT want to pull the timing cover on this engine if I can avoid it. From what I can tell, there is only one rail that requires timing cover removal, and I'm going to hope that one is ok; and just replace the others. I searched both 500 forums and PeachParts, seems that most people either just replace the top rails (above the camshafts), or pay the mechanic to do everything. A couple folks pulled the timing cover and changed all of them but that's not in my plans for this motor right now - that's a separate project for next year. If anyone has tips about how to R&R those inside/upper rails, and also the long curved rail on the passenger side, I'd greatly appreciate any assistance... thanks! |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
To replace rails #8 & # 14 you must remove the upper cover on that side. also set motor at 45 deg BTDC compression stroke and pin & remove the intake cam gear.
__________________
MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES) ASE Master Technician Mercedes Benz Star Technician (2 times) 44 years foreign automotive repair 27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer) MB technical information Specialist (15 years) 190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold) 1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold) Retired Moderator |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
MB Doc, thanks for the reply! I was able to pin the cams and remove the sprockets, and get all 3 chain rails removed from the head (the ones held in place with dowel pins). I've been taking photos and I'll update this thread with more info & pics when I get it back together.
One more question: Do the M119 chain tensioners really go bad? I thought the typical complaint of the "chain rattle" was almost always due to the faulty check valve in the oil filter housing (which I do plan to replace), not a bad tensioner. This is an early-build 1992 motor, btw, with 77kmi on it - the chain tensioner is original, it's date-stamped 1991. I've also heard there was a recall/upgrade to the original tensioners, but can't find any info on that. If you recommend that I replace the tensioner, is the aftermarket "SWAG" brand tensioner acceptable? I don't know if that is OEM or not. It's significantly less expensive than an OE tensioner from the dealer. Thanks again! |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Hi,
It has happened to my engine at 90K. The parts are really very cheap- all you need is to take the valve cover off and replace the broken timing chain guide. Anyway, all the replacement parts that I've seen are MB. I guess that it's best to make it a regular maintenance part- every 50K sounds good. And, just has bad, are the cam oil tubes. 1992 and earlier engines have aluminum ones so there is no problem with them; later 119s have plastic ones and they definitely go bad- but you can get replacement ones make out of aluminum. Attached is my engine with a replacement timing chain guide installed- and you can also see the oil tubes, too. Peter C. Sessler Last edited by whunter; 11-17-2011 at 03:13 PM. Reason: removed dead link |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Hi,
I just realized that I hadn't answered your question! Yes, they go bad- look at how cheapo the original ones are. The high heat location makes them brittle and so they break. Peter C. Sessler |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|