There's really nothing to lubricate. The way suspension link bushings work is the outer steel sleeve is an interference fit in the suspension member, and the inner steel sleeve is held firm by the through bolt.

All movement is within the rubber itself - like bending an erasure. There are no sliding surfaces.

These bushings often show cracking around the edges you can see, but that doesn't mean the bushing is bad. The best way to check is to use a prybar to see if there is excessive movement/lack of resistance in any direction. That could mean the interior of the bushing - the rubber - is deteriorated.

The steering linkage has mostly solid ball joints. One exception on some models may be the idler arm connection to the frame. The rubber boots you can see on the steering linkage joints are there to contain the grease and keep dirt out... same with the steering knuckle ball joint boots.

Wear in the steering linkage joints can cause a "cracking" or "snapping" noise as you turn the wheel, especially if there is also vertical suspension movement. This is the current situation on my 83K mile 190E 2.6. There is one worn joint on each of the tie rods and center link, so I have to replace all three. I have Lemforder replacements from Pelican, but I have to check that I have a proper size tie rod puller. With a proper puller it should be a fairly easy job.

The ball joints are okay, but the boots are torn, so I also bought new ball joint boots. I don't think that job will be too hard, either. With jack stands under the front control arms the knuckle/strut can be easily separated from the ball joint stud by removing the pinch bolt and jacking up the knuckly/strut up via the brake rotor enough to lift the knuckle clear of the ball joint stud. The tricky part will probably be getting the lower snap ring onto the boot.

Duke