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  #1  
Old 12-02-2001, 09:10 PM
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Location: San Diego, Ca
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Zeroing in on climate issues, have ?'s

Well this weekend my dad pulls out this blue service manual dedicated to the 123 climate control. I did some reading, some testing, and was able to improve my heat-stuck-on problem, but it's still to warm in the car and not working right. I'm wondering if anyone can shed some light. Here's what I did.

I tested the interior thermistor at 75 and 85, couldn't do 65, the people thermometer considers that "out of range" aka "you're dead if your 65 degrees". My mom's baking thermo whent from 75 and it checked out within range at those temps. I just dunked it in water with the thermomter in there as well and took ohm readings.

The ambient sensor: It was about 97 degrees after my car idling with the hood up for a while and it checked out, like 207 ohms or close. I removed it and checked it in my hand, not froma point in the car.

The dial potentiometer: This is interesting. I tested it at the plug under the blower. At first, it was reading from 700 to 15-1600 ohms and I'm thinking I got my problem. Well I adjusted it so it's not about 200-1000 ohms. I won't go the full range the manual says, but in this range, I would think I should have little heat as the resistance chain should be low. I'm getting a warm car instead of a hot car. It's tolarable but if the AC is on, if flip flops from heat to AC.

Other things I did. I plugged the thermistor back into that air hose. I used to work awesome just sitting above the plastic piece above the passenger foot well. Dont' know what has changed. This helped but gave my wild flip floping between the air and AC.

I zip tied the floor vents open so it would react more quickly to AC temp changes. Then I relocated the thermistor so it is sticking out below into the passenger well a few inches. That worked better, still flip floping but the delta is much less. I'd put it back on the dash, but with the defrost vents stuck open, it renders the climate control useless as it just blows hot air right on it and shuts the heat down or cold air and shuts the AC down.

Anyway, the best I can tell, somewhere I have more resistance than I should in the chain. I'm wondering if maybe the thermistor is flaky in it's lower range? Just sitting there with the doors open, it was bout 65 out and the thing was reading where it should for that temp but I couldn't actually use the thermomter to test it.

What about jumping the ambient sensor in the interim? That should knock a few hundred ohms off of the chain and make it less likely to heat.

Are there any other things I should ohm out? I'm not awesome at reading the electrical diagrams.

The car has a new servo and amplifier.

Thanks,

Frank.
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  #2  
Old 12-02-2001, 11:30 PM
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Have you checked the mono valve? Default is wide open.
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  #3  
Old 12-03-2001, 08:13 AM
LarryBible
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The '79 model has no mono-valve, it is a servo system.

Elripster, check your fax machine.

Have a great day,
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Old 12-04-2001, 08:09 PM
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Good afternoon Larry, what about a 1980 TD, one of the new guys has no heat in his car. How would one go about troubleshooting one of these servos if it is what he has? Thanks in advance.
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Old 12-05-2001, 01:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by LarryBible
The '79 model has no mono-valve, it is a servo system.

Elripster, check your fax machine.

Have a great day,
Larry, got the fax, thanks much, it looks very informative. I hope to get to it this weekend.

Frank.
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  #6  
Old 12-05-2001, 08:33 AM
LarryBible
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wagonboy,

Maybe elripster can fax you the bulletin I sent him.

Have a great day,
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Old 12-05-2001, 01:15 PM
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Thanks a lot Larry.
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