Recently my W124 wagon started making an odd ticking noise. However it only occurs when the engine is running above 3000 rpm. When driving or idling the car will only tick when above 3000 rpm.

I have had numerous distributor and rotor problems. Could this be the cause? The noise sounds as though it is coming from that part of the engine.

Thanks
Dan

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1991 Mercedes 300TE (Current Girlfriend )
1994 Mazda Miata

What year is the car? If your car is early 86/87/88? they had problems with camshaft material. Your camshaft might have some flat lobes which would cause the noise you describe.

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1991 300E - 212K and rising fast...

The car is a 1991. I recently performed a head gasket job on the car, after which it ran beautifully. Until the Duralast rotor blew apart on my way home from a friends school.

And wouldn't the noise be audible at any rpm and idle if that were the cause?

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1991 Mercedes 300TE (Current Girlfriend )
1994 Mazda Miata

Well that rules out the cam/rockers. 1991 had the chill hardened cam/rockers. But you should check to make sure none of the rocker arms have loose bolts. You can visually inspect the cam with the valve cover off too. When was the oil last changed?

If you have your head in the engine bay, moving the throttle linkage manually, can you pinpoint exactly where the noise is coming from?

How many miles on the car? Ticking is a noise associated purely with the top end of the engine. It could be worn valve guides if you have anywhere near 200K or over....which allows the valve to wander around just a bit causing a ticking noise.

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1991 300E - 212K and rising fast...

The car has 135k on it. The oil has been changed religiously. The noise started recently after I replaced the broken rotor. The sound of the noise is coming from the front of the engine.

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1991 Mercedes 300TE (Current Girlfriend )
1994 Mazda Miata

Did you check for cap damage? The exploding rotor could have cracked the cap. Or it could have just cracked after you replaced the rotor. Either way you need to inspect both sides of the cap. It could be cracked on the outside and not the inside, and vice versa.

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1991 300E - 212K and rising fast...

I'd guess a stripped cam brg mounting bolt.

Go through them and check the re-torque. I could just be a piece of trash in the lifter... If you can use your stethscope and tell which cylinder- then you could only re-torque those 4. If they won't hold a torque- buy a repair insert.

I didn't even know Autozone had distributor rotors and caps for benzs. I'd stick with Bosch and they are not really expensive.


Micheal

Napa brand distributor rotors are better than Bosch ones...and are made in Italy. I replaced a Bosch one that wore out in about 4 months with a Napa one....it has been in over a year with 0 issues.

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Yes, I am never buying anything that isn't Bosch or OEM spec again. In any case I will take some time and pull the distributor apart and check that.

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1991 Mercedes 300TE (Current Girlfriend )
1994 Mazda Miata

Don't disregard all brands, just go with reputable German manufacturers instead of generic aftermarket. IE: Beru ignition wires and Bosch. Beru is a reputable company you should be assured to not have problems with. You catch the drift...

As said above, I agree with possible lifters not getting enough oil at higher rpm's?

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

I ran into ticking problems with my m103 when using crappy oil and filters... Ended up buying mahle oil filters from allpartsexpress and using better synth oil and it sorted itself out. Near as I could tell (as could my local indy) the crap oil was gumming up the hydraulic lash adjusters in the head and the crap filter(thanks napa) was not providing adequate flow. Check out the filters, they are like $6 and are well worth it.

Another reason not to use generic filters is because they have terrible quality, or lack anti drainback features at all! After the engine has cooled down and all oil has drained into the pan, there is a lack of oil stored in the filter to lubricate upon cold start. This is pretty harmful long term.

The filter brand is incredibly important.

If you take your MB to pepboys or the like quick oil change places, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE provide them the filter!!

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

With a car stethoscope (cheap) you can easily find the source of this noise.
It may be the fan hitting something.

Rob

Or if you don't have a stethoscope you can just use a piece of garden hose.

Ticking noises could be anything. You need to narrow down where it is coming from.

On 103's i've seen ticking from lifters, exhaust gaskets, arcing spark plug leads.

Well today after finally getting a little break from school I took a peek at the distributor cap and rotor. They both look fine and have no signs of rubbing. I will post some pictures later.

As for the fan hitting something, when I was looking at the distributor I had the cowling away from the fan and it did not hit anything or wobble. Next thing to do will be to try and find out where the noise is coming from. I will use the garden hose method.

On a completely unrelated topic I did solve the high idle issue that has been bothering me for quite some time. It appears that the switch (Part number 002 545 68 14 I am not sure what this part is called) on the throttle is not fully being depressed, thus the computer wont kick the engine into idle. Cool! I just ordered a replacement

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1991 Mercedes 300TE (Current Girlfriend )
1994 Mazda Miata