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  #31  
Old 05-11-2010, 11:49 AM
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1993 300E 2.8- M104
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ps2cho View Post
Gotcha. Then yes my very rear one is for the KE-Jet coolant temp sensor. Do I need to bridge them or just unplug? Should the fans kick in right away or when the car is started if it is functioning correctly?
once unplugged, fans should ideally come-on at full speed..if not, something is not right (resistor or relay)

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  #32  
Old 05-11-2010, 09:14 PM
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Check your fan resistor. The connectors often get corroded - break off or wont condcut the fan current through the corrosion.

Fan resistor is underneath the ABS module. Caveat this is for the later M103 update version.

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  #33  
Old 05-12-2010, 01:05 AM
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Pulled the two connectors with Key ON to ignition and fuel pumps energized....Nothing happened. I checked that resistor and I don't see any corrosion on the leads.

Is the relay one of the metal square boxes under the fuse box? I wonder if I can switch the one from my 88 300TE as I know that functions right as a test?
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  #34  
Old 05-12-2010, 01:39 AM
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Slightly off-topic, but does anyone else feel that 105 is a bit too high for the aux fans to come on? My 300SD plants itself at 80 degrees and does not move a millimeter when in traffic, hot, cold, etc. When I got my 300E I was extremely concerned when it hit 100* in traffic and then went down to 60* on the highway. I have never seen a cars temp fluctuate so wildly. I take it 105* is "fine" then and will not hurt the engine? I get nervous when it hits the 100 mark.

Edit: yes, I do realize that diesels create less heat than gas engines, but in comparison to other gas cars, the temp gauge is wild.
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  #35  
Old 05-12-2010, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ps2cho View Post
Pulled the two connectors with Key ON to ignition and fuel pumps energized....Nothing happened. I checked that resistor and I don't see any corrosion on the leads.

Is the relay one of the metal square boxes under the fuse box? I wonder if I can switch the one from my 88 300TE as I know that functions right as a test?
The relays should be interchangeable. If you pulled the 2-pole connector off the temp sensor (the farthest right one in the earlier photo) with key all the way on, engine off and the fan did not spin, there is a problem in the circuit somewhere. Have you tried bridging the pigtails coming off the drier pressure switch? That gives you low fan (KOEO), and would be a test of fan function. Other components to test: 2 fuses. I think they are 7 and D, one is for the coil side of the relay (labeled C in the attached photo) and one is for the load side. Then there's the relay itself, the ceramic step resistor in Ivanerrol's photo, and the wiring from there to the fan motor.

What are these fuses for?-p5275597x.jpg
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  #36  
Old 05-12-2010, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivanerrol View Post
Check your fan resistor. The connectors often get corroded - break off or wont condcut the fan current through the corrosion.

Fan resistor is underneath the ABS module. Caveat this is for the later M103 update version.

You can just bypass the resistor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbomachines View Post
Slightly off-topic, but does anyone else feel that 105 is a bit too high for the aux fans to come on? My 300SD plants itself at 80 degrees and does not move a millimeter when in traffic, hot, cold, etc. When I got my 300E I was extremely concerned when it hit 100* in traffic and then went down to 60* on the highway. I have never seen a cars temp fluctuate so wildly. I take it 105* is "fine" then and will not hurt the engine? I get nervous when it hits the 100 mark.

Edit: yes, I do realize that diesels create less heat than gas engines, but in comparison to other gas cars, the temp gauge is wild.
Yes I agree. 105c is too hot. I'm eliminating the clutch fan on my 2.6 and triggering the aux fans at 90c with a 700 ohm parallel resistor in the coolant sensor plug. But it sounds like your thermostat has failed because the temperature shouldn't drop to 60c. I would replace it with a 79c thermostat.
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  #37  
Old 05-12-2010, 01:00 PM
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I have the reverse problem

My 300E engine can never reach 80*C on the highway. It can in the city. With the engine not running the fan can still move. But when the engine is running it seems to run at the same speed. I notice that there is no electrical connection to the fan.

Is my engine running too cold? Is the fan clutch activated by electricity? If so then how can I test whether the clutch is still working and how to get its correct connection wire?
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  #38  
Old 05-12-2010, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by tjts1 View Post
You can just bypass the resistor...
Not if he wants low fan speed.
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Past Mercedes-Benz:
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  #39  
Old 05-12-2010, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by glpro160 View Post
My 300E engine can never reach 80*C on the highway. It can in the city. With the engine not running the fan can still move. But when the engine is running it seems to run at the same speed. I notice that there is no electrical connection to the fan.

Is my engine running too cold? Is the fan clutch activated by electricity? If so then how can I test whether the clutch is still working and how to get its correct connection wire?
If the temp gauge sits just a hair below 80c on the highway, you probably have a 79c thermostat. I wouldn't worry about it. If its much lower than that, your thermostat probably failed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cal Learner View Post
Not if he wants low fan speed.
I don't see the benefit to having a low fan speed. On my car low speed is only used by the AC pressure trigger and the resistor is another potential failure point. After 100k+ miles all our radiators are stuffed full of dirt, rocks, debris etc. Run a high pressure water jet through the back of the back of the radiator fins and you'll be amazed at the crap that comes out. The more air you can flow through the radiator at lower temp, the better.
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  #40  
Old 05-13-2010, 08:42 AM
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[QUOTE=tjts1;2465815]If the temp gauge sits just a hair below 80c on the highway, you probably have a 79c thermostat. I wouldn't worry about it. If its much lower than that, your thermostat probably failed.

Thanks, tjts1. To be exact the needle is roughly 2mm below 80C on the gauge on the highway. Another question: is there any control wire to the fan clutch? I don't see my fan have it.
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  #41  
Old 05-13-2010, 09:59 AM
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The 300e should have a regular viscous clutch fan so no wire. When they fail, the clutch doesn't engage as the engine warms up. An easy test is to allow the engine to warm up (~90c on the gauge), pop the hood and try to stop the fan with a rolled up news paper. Be VERY careful with your fingers. If you can stop it or slow it down substantially with the newspaper, the clutch is probably toast. If you're temperature gauge never goes above 100c, the clutch fan is probably fine.
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  #42  
Old 05-13-2010, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjts1 View Post
The 300e should have a regular viscous clutch fan so no wire. When they fail, the clutch doesn't engage as the engine warms up. An easy test is to allow the engine to warm up (~90c on the gauge), pop the hood and try to stop the fan with a rolled up news paper. Be VERY careful with your fingers. If you can stop it or slow it down substantially with the newspaper, the clutch is probably toast. If you're temperature gauge never goes above 100c, the clutch fan is probably fine.
When the engine doesn't run the fan is movable. When the engine does I can still keep the fan from moving by holding it but when I release it it seems to run with the same speed with the crankshaft meaning it always runs as if it is always engaged with the pulley of the crankshaft.

My car occasionally reaches 90C when running under the sun with the A/C on. Most of the time it is around 80C in the city and less on the highway. And the funny thing is my aux. fan starts when the temperature gauge reads slightly above 80C. Is there anything wrong here?

Running a too hot engine is definitely not good but what is the down side of a cold engine? I heard someone say normal operating temperature of Merc engine is 90C.
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  #43  
Old 06-03-2010, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffmac View Post
a fan clutch is to spin the blade by hand with the engine stone cold and not running (of course), the fan blade should spin freely. If it doesn't then the clutch is bad...
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryBible View Post
Test the fan clutch by simply turning the fan with the engine off and see if it coasts. If it does, replace the fan clutch.
Which one is it?

When spinning it dead cold, it only spins about 1/4 of a turn. It definitely is not free spinning. Quite some resistance.

I bought a used working fan coupling either way(Seller showed video of it working and it is only 2 years old), but just curious as to the correct test procedure.
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  #44  
Old 06-03-2010, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glpro160 View Post
My 300E engine can never reach 80*C on the highway. It can in the city. With the engine not running the fan can still move. But when the engine is running it seems to run at the same speed. I notice that there is no electrical connection to the fan.

Is my engine running too cold? Is the fan clutch activated by electricity? If so then how can I test whether the clutch is still working and how to get its correct connection wire?
Standard is an 87C thermostat. You should be running around 90C or so most of the time. Is your gas mileage poor? If so, then you may be running with the cold start injector going all of the time.
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  #45  
Old 06-03-2010, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by glpro160 View Post
My car occasionally reaches 90C when running under the sun with the A/C on. Most of the time it is around 80C in the city and less on the highway. And the funny thing is my aux. fan starts when the temperature gauge reads slightly above 80C. Is there anything wrong here?
That doesn't sound right. Maybe the temp sender or the temp gauge on your dash is bad.

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