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  #1  
Old 07-21-2010, 01:45 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 254
The WP on this car is not that bad to do. ALL the bolts are accessible, with a bit of prep ad the right tools. Though ps2cho did his without removing the PS pump I highly recommend onbolting it and pulling it to the side. You may NEED to do this anyway if you're replacing the tensioner. I believe the PS pump and the tensioner share a bracket.
TAKE PICTURES as you disassemble! It will likely benefit you greatly if you're unfamiliar.
You'll need to remove the fan and pulley. It will give clear access to the front area of the pump. There are two small ribs on the timing cover behind the pulley. You should be able to see them clearly, place a rod (1/4"?) with the last inch bent to almost an "L" between the ribs. Turn the pulley until a corresponding hole appears and slide the bent end of the rod into it. This will lock the pulley in place to facilitate removing the pulley bolts.
The WP bolts that are hidden can usually be easily gotten to with a long extension and a swivel joint. A swivel SOCKET of the proper size is best. Though it may work, using just a swivel joint with a socket on it can get clumsy and reduces the already tight working space. As mentioned by another poster, a 1/4" extension may work better in the narrow spaces between the intake pipes. The WP bolts are not torqued that tight, don't over-tighten them. I replaced mine with stainless hex head bolts.
There is a DIY tutorial on the tensioner here somewhere that is excellent and I would say ESSENTIAL. Read it and re-read it. Not only will it guide your set up and installation, but it will provide a good understanding of it's proper function and adjustment.

Hope some of this helps.
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  #2  
Old 07-21-2010, 08:01 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Baton Rouge La
Posts: 2,632
it just takes some tongue twisting, and skinned knuckles to get those bolts out...actually one is not too hard, the other you just need the u-joint... i think i used quarter inch extensions and universal, but had a 3/8" ratchet to give me some torque..

i think i have stated that I have done the job twice.... i did pull the radiator to give me a bit more access. also loosened some bolts on the ps pump to move it to the side a bit...
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1989 300ce 129k
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1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus

1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k



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  #3  
Old 07-21-2010, 08:20 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 845
You will note that in my above image I have removed the first two injectors. This is because this car is a Japanese specced RHD car with a NipponDenso air con compressor fitted. The routing of the AC cables made it impossible to undo the top W.P.inner bolt and extremely hard to tighten the lower bolt as per the DIY instructions. I had to use a spanner between the 1st and 2nd pot inlet manifold to inch the bolt out.

Even then the replacement process wasn't so successful. Ultimately I completely removed the inlet manifold to get this water pump water tight. P.I.T.Ask
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