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#16
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thanks for the intel.....but my ps is leaking and I would like to seal it. I'm gonna try to get a diagram of this job, wp replacement do I at least know where to begin. any other advice us welcome. thanks ps2cho
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1990 190E 3.0L |
#17
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By removing the pressure cap from the pressure tank. The expansion tank is inside the lower part of the right front fender, out of sight. It's where the hose leads to from the filler neck of the pressure tank.
You need the hose that connects the wp to the block, you won't typically find that at a local parts store, very important. Also not sure what the silicone is for, you you mean silicone sealer or silicone spray? Sealer you could use to hold the o-ring in place. Oh speaking of o-rings you need one of the gray ones for the end of the heater hose pipe where it enters the wp, they usually are hard and or cracked and need to be replaced since it's removed anyways. You're replacing or assuming you need to replace a bunch of stuff i wouldn't bother with, although most of it is stuff I'd like to know I could get to right away in case I needed it. Especially what you call the expansion tank, which must be the pressure tank, I hardly ever replaced those. Why? The expansion tank I replaced in the case of blown head gaskets where there was a load of oily crap in there because it's about impossible to clean. Gilly
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Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#18
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yes, I did get the 2 - 3 inch hose connecting the wp to the block. I also have a box of different sized o rings. anything else.
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1990 190E 3.0L |
#19
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Quote:
The only time you need some silicone like compound is if you are resealing the front timing cover...but that is not what you are doing... The water pump itself is an easy job. getting to it is not too bad if you keep track of what you did. it has 4 allen bolts, the lower two are tricky to get out without the right tools.....spray bolts with PB blaster a night before to make breaking them easier...they might be a bit rusted as was the case with mine.. I am not really sure what you are doing with the PS pump, as i have not touched that... good luck
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1993 300E, 2.8 M104 ..... |
#20
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Quote:
Quote:
To the OP Let me know if you need the cooling system repair PDF. I can email it to you.
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CENSORED due to not family friendly words |
#21
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I did, its mostly take-off-and-replace type stuff. I'd recommend taking it easy on WP and thermostat housing bolts as they can get brittle and snap if you torque too hard. Replacing them would also be a good idea.
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TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
#22
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tjts1 could you email me the diagram please! i wish u would've mentioned that u had a pdf in the first place....I was panicked about going in blind. thanks
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1990 190E 3.0L |
#23
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Why does everyone on the forum have to read this?
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1985 500SL Euro w/ AMG bits 130k 1984 300SD Turbodiesel 192k 1980 240D Stick China 188k 2001 CLK55 AMG 101k 2007 S600 Biturbo 149k Overheated Project, IT'S ALIVE!!! |
#24
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Quote:
There is a tank hidden behind the passenger fender. I don't know the name of it...but there is one. Is it where the black hose goes to at the top of the coolant reservoir. You can see the hose in the picture above. It circles around and down into the fender. I think it is an overflow tank so if you put too much in, it won't blow the reservoir cap off.
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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k 2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k 2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k 2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k |
#25
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The hidden one is the expansion tank. If the pressure cap releases coolant, instead of going to the ground, it EXPANDS into the expansion tank. Later when the engine cools off, the excess coolant will get sucked back into the pressure tank, all through the hose connected to the filler neck. It works like many cars, specificaly like most US cars, except it is hidden. The pressure tank is an unusual system compared to most US cars. The pressure tank is connected directly to the engine cooling system. The level does change according to engine temp, but it's not an expansion tank. The expansion tank handles the overflow from the system.
You don't state when the coolant was last replaced, so of course you'd want to pick up some good coolant. I'd recommend either the MB stuff or Xerex G05. I'd also recommend getting some good water, the cheap stuff you see at the grocery store that['s either distilled or "drinking" water would be fine, better than what you'd get at the tap and cheaper (less additives like flouride in the store-bought drinking water, but check the label). The silicone sealant will hold the o-ring in place on the waterpump while you install it, it is helpful for that. The new pump should come with the o-ring. And then as i mentioned the other o-ring is the one on the end of the steel heater pipe that connects to the side of the waterpump, the pipe that crosses in front of the upper timing cover. On the pwer steering pump, if it's leaking I'd recommend picking up a reman pump. Pretty involved. Gilly
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Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#26
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Just checked my 201 disc, they DO refer to the bottom tank as the overflow tank. In the work instructions they DO refer to the pressure tank as the expansion tank, referring to it once as the "reservoir", which actually I do see a lot in the owners manuals.
Gilly
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Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#27
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Just checked my 201 disc, they DO refer to the bottom tank as the overflow tank. In the work instructions they DO refer to the pressure tank as the expansion tank, referring to it once as the "reservoir", which actually I do see a lot in the owners manuals.
The OVERFLOW tank is often overlooked (as you can not look at it at all!) after a headgasket job, where there has been oil mixed in with the coolant. The job will seemingly be all done and the cooling system flushed and all seems well. Then the car starts getting oil into the coolant again so the owner thinks the job was botched, when the real problem is the overflow tan was never emptied, and actuall for what it costs should have just been replaced, as they are about impossible to clean. No cap, just a nipple where the hose from the pressure tank connects, and a small spigot which will let the coolant spill out if the overflow tank completely fills. Gilly
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Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#28
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Ok, everybody, lets pratice together now. Say it with me:
Overflow tank Expansion tank Now repeat. Any question? Good!
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CENSORED due to not family friendly words |
#29
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Ok guys heres a status update....the leaking got to the point where I could only drive about 2-3 miles before I had to pull over and fill the radiator and all my parts come in on thursday so this is what I did: I got the radiator off, not completely, just out of the way, I took the front fan blade off, got the belt off and had access to the wp, but the only bolt I could get off was the hex key bolt in the front. The other two are behind the damn waterpump and the intake manifold is blocking it! Damn Germans! what were they thinking?! Anyways, while I had complete access and couldn't remove or get to the two bolts behind, I decided to add some water directly into the wp to pinpoint the leak and it was coming from a tiny hole that I could not see, but I could feel with my finger and see water pouring at a steady stream. Only having one car and needing to work tomorrow I decided to do a temporary fix. I slathered some high-temp resistant silicone over the hole and let it sit for a few hours. I put everything back together and let it sit for a few hours and when I added the water, BINGO! no more leak! Not competely satisfied with the water holding, I decided to test it out and drove around for a while and what do you know, its fixed! I don't no for how long, but so far so good. I'm tempted to leave it as is until it starts leaking again because I could not even get the damn pump off. The belt tensioner tightened right back up as well, no squeling at all on the initial start. What do you guys think of this quick fix? Is it ok to see how long the silicone holds for? Is there any risk in that?
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1990 190E 3.0L |
#30
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Does/did the water pump pulley have any play to it if push or pulled in an up and down motion relative to the ground? I think these water pumps start leaking when the main bearings inside of them are wearing out. If that is the case, then your pump may have a very limited life.
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2006 BMW M5 "Heidi" @ 109,000 miles 2005 MBZ C55 AMG "Lorelai" @ 165,000 miles 1991 MBZ 300E "Benzachino II" @ 165,000 miles 1990 MBZ 500SL "Shoshanna" @ 118,000 miles (On the hunt for a good used M103 engine as of 6/10/23, PM me if you have one to sell!) |
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