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#1
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I did, its mostly take-off-and-replace type stuff. I'd recommend taking it easy on WP and thermostat housing bolts as they can get brittle and snap if you torque too hard. Replacing them would also be a good idea.
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TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
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#2
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I'm sure it is a straight forward job for someone that has some experience with cars, but this is my first time. I have never done it, never read a book on it, never seen it done before....doing cosmetic surgery is easy to me, but I'm sure it would be a little challenging for anyone of you that has never done it before. I just need a little guidance, I'm pretty much going in blind....anything can happen that I wanna be prepared for like stripping a bolt, breaking a piece off of something that I need to move to get to the water pump, etc. I'm already aware that I need to get a new belt tensioner since I heard that they tend not to re-tightened once removed. Two of you are arguing about the use of silicone for this application, I do not know which one of you are right. I only planned on putting it around any adjacent parts as a precautionary purpose, but should I or should I not? Input from someone that has done this job before on the same or similar model would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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1990 190E 3.0L |
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#3
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Quote:
The only time you need some silicone like compound is if you are resealing the front timing cover...but that is not what you are doing... The water pump itself is an easy job. getting to it is not too bad if you keep track of what you did. it has 4 allen bolts, the lower two are tricky to get out without the right tools.....spray bolts with PB blaster a night before to make breaking them easier...they might be a bit rusted as was the case with mine.. I am not really sure what you are doing with the PS pump, as i have not touched that... good luck
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1993 300E, 2.8 M104 ..... |
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#4
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The biggest torque setting you'll need is 80nm for the main tensioner bolt. Follow the guidelines carefully for resetting the tensioner. Doing it out of order can prematurely wear the bushings inside.
This is half the reason so many break is because uninformed mechanics or DIY'ers do not do follow the manual at all, or follow it incorrectly and seeing as the bushings are already aged, it just finishes it off. You don't need to remove the power steering pump though as the manual states. I got away without as shown here: ![]() I recommend getting new allen bolts since more than likely you'll chew them up a bit. Just remember to crack the bolts with a swift palm hit rather than just using increasing pressure as that'll just strip them then you are in for some fun...The DIY on this site at the top covers the procedure pretty well if you have not reviewed it yet.
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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k 2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k 2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k 2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k Last edited by ps2cho; 07-20-2010 at 04:30 PM. |
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#5
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thanks for the intel.....but my ps is leaking and I would like to seal it. I'm gonna try to get a diagram of this job, wp replacement do I at least know where to begin. any other advice us welcome. thanks ps2cho
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1990 190E 3.0L |
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#6
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yes, I did get the 2 - 3 inch hose connecting the wp to the block. I also have a box of different sized o rings. anything else.
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1990 190E 3.0L |
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#7
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tjts1 could you email me the diagram please! i wish u would've mentioned that u had a pdf in the first place....I was panicked about going in blind. thanks
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1990 190E 3.0L |
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#8
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Why does everyone on the forum have to read this?
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1985 500SL Euro w/ AMG bits 130k ![]() 1984 300SD Turbodiesel 192k ![]() 1980 240D Stick China 188k ![]() 2001 CLK55 AMG 101k 2007 S600 Biturbo 149k Overheated Project, IT'S ALIVE!!!
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#9
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Ok, everybody, lets pratice together now. Say it with me:
Overflow tank ![]() Expansion tank ![]() Now repeat. Any question? Good!
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CENSORED due to not family friendly words
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#10
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Ok guys heres a status update....the leaking got to the point where I could only drive about 2-3 miles before I had to pull over and fill the radiator and all my parts come in on thursday so this is what I did: I got the radiator off, not completely, just out of the way, I took the front fan blade off, got the belt off and had access to the wp, but the only bolt I could get off was the hex key bolt in the front. The other two are behind the damn waterpump and the intake manifold is blocking it! Damn Germans! what were they thinking?! Anyways, while I had complete access and couldn't remove or get to the two bolts behind, I decided to add some water directly into the wp to pinpoint the leak and it was coming from a tiny hole that I could not see, but I could feel with my finger and see water pouring at a steady stream. Only having one car and needing to work tomorrow I decided to do a temporary fix. I slathered some high-temp resistant silicone over the hole and let it sit for a few hours. I put everything back together and let it sit for a few hours and when I added the water, BINGO! no more leak! Not competely satisfied with the water holding, I decided to test it out and drove around for a while and what do you know, its fixed! I don't no for how long, but so far so good. I'm tempted to leave it as is until it starts leaking again because I could not even get the damn pump off. The belt tensioner tightened right back up as well, no squeling at all on the initial start. What do you guys think of this quick fix? Is it ok to see how long the silicone holds for? Is there any risk in that?
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1990 190E 3.0L |
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#11
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Does/did the water pump pulley have any play to it if push or pulled in an up and down motion relative to the ground? I think these water pumps start leaking when the main bearings inside of them are wearing out. If that is the case, then your pump may have a very limited life.
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2006 BMW M5 "Heidi" @ 109,000 miles 2005 MBZ C55 AMG "Lorelai" @ 165,000 miles 1991 MBZ 300E "Benzachino II" @ 165,000 miles 1990 MBZ 500SL "Shoshanna" @ 118,000 miles (On the hunt for a good used M103 engine as of 6/10/23, PM me if you have one to sell!) |
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#12
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The seals are shot. The hole is for pressure relief between the inner and outer seal. The only real risk is the plug of silicone popping out, which I imagine it will do in fairly short order, so the only risk is losing the coolant, which you're used to already anyways.
Yes the rear ones are hard, but not impossible. Just need a medium sized extension and a swivel adapter and a "can do" attitude. I don't let tits1 intimidate me, why let 2 lousy bolts intimidate YOU? Gilly
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Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
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#13
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See this DIY
Note that this DIY involves removing the water pump, steering pump and cooling fan pulleys. Here's the parts I pull off when doing a pump. + the belt tensioner and shock. ![]() Here's an image of where I was a little extravagant - pulled the distributor and all off. Note the rust in the water chamber - P.O. of this car was a little lax with the coolant. ![]() Here's another source of a water leak at the pump.
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#14
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Quote:
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1989 300ce 129k ( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone) 1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus 1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k 1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it [/SIGPIC] |
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#15
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Quote:
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1990 190E 3.0L |
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