!!! Front end failure, nelp asap W126 - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

LandYaghtLover · #31 08-18-2010, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dpetryk

I see you live in the rust belt. Many times the torsion bars fail as a result of rust where the bar and the upper control arm join. I lived in Milwaukee for 15 years and I watched in anger as my cars dissolved before my eyes. Usually the cars that have this problem are in areas where they salt the roads.

I would be interested to know if rust contributed to the failure.

Please let us know.

To me it looks like bushing failure that caused metal fatigue. I will take pic of course.

While it sure is the rust belt, Mercedes seems to have done an amazing job of rust proofing this car. There is very little rust on the underside or its hidden by the black spray on stuff thats "painted" on the underside.

Rob Pruijt · #32 08-19-2010, 06:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LandYaghtLover

Thanks Rob. Then I am glad that today I ordered two of the Peach kits that are shipping second day for Friday delivery.

What the heck is the guide rod? Like a strut rod? I also see Peach is cheaper for the same thing. Thanks for pointing it out, I will show them that not only will it not work, its the wrong part!

The guide rod links the lower control arm to the aluminum mount under the car, it keeps the front wheel in place under braking.

The sway bar is part of the rear suspension, it links the suspension to the rear torsion bar.

I would not worry about welding. The part of the torsion bar that attaches to the upper control arm is much smaller in diameter than the bar itself, and has a hole in it. I would be very surprised if the bar would break in an other place, even when welded.

It breaks when the rubbers harden and combined with sand slowly destroy the tube.

Rob

Gilly · #33 08-19-2010, 07:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rob Pruijt

I would be very surprised if the bar would break in an other place, even when welded.

Rob

Yes, it would be quite a surprise indeed.

Benz Mercedes · #34 08-19-2010, 07:55 AM

I had to have the replacement torsion bar end replaced on my 420SEL 5 years ago and have had no issues since. I got the part from PHIL at FASTLANE, It's a sleeve that fits over the torsion bar, the end will need to be cut about 1 inch to receive the replacement end at the originial location. I was fortunate to have an expert welder replace mine.

Rob Pruijt · #35 08-19-2010, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gilly

Yes, it would be quite a surprise indeed.

When mine broke (at the usual place), the steering got a bit more "wobbly" than usual, not a big deal.

Rob

LandYaghtLover · #36 08-19-2010, 09:13 AM

Yes, the car is quite drivable in this condition. Steel and braking are compromised, but I would not hesitate to drive it long distance and slow speeds if I had to. I would not choose to drive it though since an emergency maneuver maybe difficult to perform! But slow speeds and light braking could at least get the vehicle to a repair shop or home.

Gilly · #37 08-19-2010, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rob Pruijt

When mine broke (at the usual place), the steering got a bit more "wobbly" than usual, not a big deal.

Rob

Just torquin' ya Rob..........

LandYaghtLover · #38 08-20-2010, 03:37 PM

Peach parts came today. Ordered both sides. Napa part was indeed wrong, got a full refund on that one.

Will install tonight or tomorrow morning, whenever my friend has time to install.

LandYaghtLover · #39 08-21-2010, 08:14 PM

Got the car to my friend with all the welding tools this morning. It was VERy easy to install, much easier than the drill and tap method. The driver's side it what had broke for me and install could not have been easier.

Then off to the passenger side just incase it would fail soon. As I took the nut out I noticed the bushings were very new. Maybe a year old or less. Then my friend noticed the bolt was twice as long as what is seen on the broken side (I found my broke off parts along the road a couple days after it happened). Upon further inspection it appears that this side had failed an attempt was made to drill and tap new threads. It did not look safe at all. The bolt was too short and they drilled way off center. Clearly its not the right way to do it, although I am sure it would have held for some time.

But I am happy we did both sides. Maybe 1.5 hours of work to do both sides. Now I just need an alignment, but after I install new lower ball joints.

LandYaghtLover · #40 08-23-2010, 04:42 PM

Important note!!! No one mentioned that the upper control arm can be easily damaged by failure. What happens is the sway bar knocks on the inside of the bushing rest. If knocked around enough it quickly erodes the area. Then when new bushings are put in the reduced surface area, read bigger hole, will allow the bushing to squeeze through.

So now I have an upper control arm on order with a new set of bushings and have to R&R this again. If I had known this could happen, and Roy confirmed it can, then I would have done the upper right away.

I urge anyone who reads this thread inspect the upper arm.

Rob Pruijt · #41 08-23-2010, 05:11 PM

There are big washers at either side, I don't think the bushings can squeeze through.

They are not expensive and since the bad tension rod may have damaged them I would replace them, not a very hard job. The guide joint will most likely be worn on an older car.

Rob

pawoSD · #42 08-23-2010, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dpetryk

I see you live in the rust belt. Many times the torsion bars fail as a result of rust where the bar and the upper control arm join. I lived in Milwaukee for 15 years and I watched in anger as my cars dissolved before my eyes. Usually the cars that have this problem are in areas where they salt the roads.

I would be interested to know if rust contributed to the failure.

Please let us know.

When the bar snapped on my dad's '83 300SD it was due to rust. We also fixed a lot of rust under the 2nd firewall and by the sway bar mounts. Its all good now though!

The original bar is a lot thinner in the bushing/control arm area than the new/replacement one.

LandYaghtLover · #43 08-23-2010, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rob Pruijt

There are big washers at either side, I don't think the bushings can squeeze through.

They are not expensive and since the bad tension rod may have damaged them I would replace them, not a very hard job. The guide joint will most likely be worn on an older car.

Rob

Not sure what a guide joint is. Yet. The washer is the only thing keeping the torsion rod from pulling through right now. When I R&R the upper I will compare the hole for the torsion rod to pass through. The only other thing I can think of is that the bushings are too soft and were able to compress enough. But so far the other side, which was not broken at the time, is fine.

rivermasternc · #44 11-01-2010, 09:59 PM

1986 300SDL. Here we go.

LandYaghtLover · #45 11-01-2010, 10:16 PM

Crap. Well the kit makes repair very easy. BUT and this is a BIG one. The new bushings provided were far too soft for me. Both sides had the front bushing pull through to the back making the bushing disc rest on the upper control arm. Not a good thing. Then someone said that the upper control arm can get beat up and the opening expanded. Bull. So now I have a crap URO upper that I am just waiting to fall off.

If your old ones are in decent shape, use them for the forward bushing or get some from another source like I eventually did. They were $1.10 each and MUCH stiffer than the kit ones that felt like jelly.