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Old 12-28-2001, 04:33 PM
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16V Oil Pan Gasket Sealant

Does anybody know if the oil pan gasket requires a sealant? and if so what type/brand of sealant should I use.
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Old 12-29-2001, 01:38 PM
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Join Date: May 2000
Posts: 376
When I had mine off to do the chain and rails (what a nightmare especially with the motor in the car) I used a german sealant called Dirko (sp) to seal the pan. I have used this product alot when doing repairs on my 911. Works great and cleans up easily. You could also probably use the MB sealant that is recommended for the front chain cover. Personally I do not know if it is recommended or not but I would shot myself in the head if I had to pull that pan again due to a leak.

Have fun!!!!!

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Old 12-29-2001, 02:40 PM
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Tucker, Ga USA
Posts: 12,153
MB doesn't recommend any sealant with THIS gasket, HOWEVER I use a very light coat of the factory silicone sealant(Loctite 5900) to hold the gasket in place. Just remember that you have 10 minutes or less to bolt the pan on with this type of sealer.
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Old 12-30-2001, 05:13 PM
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Thanks for the tips. I'll go ahead and assemble it without the sealant and see how it goes. Keeping my fingers crossed.
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Old 12-31-2001, 01:26 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 92

I know this is off the subject but I need a little help on that speedocable thing. As you know my speedometer was making
this noise so I took it out to drop a few lube in it but now I can't
reach in and hook the speedocable back on!! I try going the way
you said from the bottom, you mention the a/c duct, so I reach in
I can't seem to move it a single bit?! My question is (from looking up) do you try to remove the duct from the left or on the top near the driver side vent?!

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Old 12-31-2001, 12:44 PM
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Join Date: May 2000
Posts: 376

How did you get it out??? Yes you grab that plastic duct vent and pull it out from the left. Don't worry about hurting the duct, it is nice an pliable. Then you have to reach all the way up underneath and behind the cluster to attach the cable. First time might be a bit difficult.... after the fifth time you will be able to do it in your sleep. The other possible alternative would be to unhook the cable at the trans and feed some stack into the car. I have never done it that way....but it is possible.

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Old 12-31-2001, 06:42 PM
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John 16V,
I always pulled mine from the left (looking from underneath) from the center AC duct (not the driver side vent) . Like Tinker said.... pull on the corrrugated flexible duct. It will come off. Then reach under and behind the cluster to attach the cable.
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Old 12-31-2001, 11:24 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 838
What's the best "plan of attack" to replace a leaking oil sump gasket? Remove all 1,000,000,000 bolts and let it drop down a bit then change gasket from that position?

Seems like a tough job if you don't have a shop lift -- and mine is leaking


'91 300E, 206k miles
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Old 01-01-2002, 12:02 AM
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I'm not sure about your car but on a 16V you can raise the engine with a lift from above until the oil pan clears the crossmember. Benzmac(?) mentioned in one of his threads that it is also possible to remove the engine mounts, raise the engine with a floor jack to the oil pan and place 4X4s to temporarily support the lifted engine while you replace the gasket. Hope this helps.
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Old 01-01-2002, 10:04 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 92
Tinker and Steif1,

Thanks you guys, I ll give another try soon as my head heal a little.....I kinda scratch myself good doing the process of putting the cluster back on. BTW I pull the cluster off using that special
tools and reach behind it to unscrew it.....and yes I can't get it
back on!!

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