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#1
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85 380SE coil test
I've had an ongoing 'damp' ignition problem with my car. It doesn't get much use these days and sits for a week or two between drives. I tested the ignition as per the manual 15-562 Testing transistorized ignition system w/o series resistors TSZ 8 z and it's all within spec, but I have no spark. This test only checks the primary side of the ignition. The coil's 'plug' is intact and plug wires are good, cap and rotor are new. The plastic cover under the rotor is a little rough around the edges and there's no seal like on my M103. I've been able to start it in the past by spraying wd40 inside the cap and waiting overnight, but now it's not starting at all. Can the coil's secondary side be fubared yet still test normal?
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Democracy dies in darkness, you have to kick at the darkness till it bleeds daylight |
#2
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From the little I know about coils - they are essentially two bits of wire wound around each other - the primary side has less windings than the secondary side. So with the coil disconnected - perhaps a continuity check will help?
If not have a look at this:- http://autorepair.about.com/od/troubleshooting/ss/coil-test-ohm.htm
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#3
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Thanks Army, I'll try that secondary windings test.
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Democracy dies in darkness, you have to kick at the darkness till it bleeds daylight |
#4
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I did the secondary winding test, it was within spec also. I still have no spark at the coil though I've checked the wiring, all seems normal there.
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Democracy dies in darkness, you have to kick at the darkness till it bleeds daylight |
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