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  #1  
Old 12-29-2001, 10:05 PM
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Update - wiring harness has been replaced, but...

An update on the check engine wiring harness on my 1993 300E 3.2. I took my car to the dealer to plead my case on a 'goodwill repair'. Before they committed to helping my out or showing my the door, they checked to see the condition of the engine wiring harness. They checked the number on it and to prove it to me they even sliced open a portion of the black fabric covering on a section next to the firewell, and lo and behold, it has already been replaced.
I guess this is good news, but the bad news is WHY IN THE WORLD DOES MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ALWAYS COME ON!!!
The code '5' always comes up, which is an oxygen sensor. The car has a new catalytic coverter and oxygen sensor (changed twice). The mechanic suggested that if the car was running rich it might cause the code to come up. They checked it out while I waited and said it wasn't running rich. He couldn't find any good reason why the light comes on.
The mechanic then loudly proclaimed in a load voice so that everyone within earshot could here, "this car doesn't need a mechanic, it needs an excorsism!" Everybody laughed and I felt like Charlie Brown. You know, like when they go trick or treating, and everyone says what they got, like "I got an apple, I got a candy bar", and Charlie Brown says, "I got a rock..".
As I've said before, I've taken the bulb out so that I don't have to see the check engine light mocking me. But it gripes me to no end that I can't figure out. I know I'm not only anal retentive but also obsessive compulsive.
Does anybody have any suggestions????? Oh, where's the humanity?
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  #2  
Old 12-29-2001, 10:59 PM
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You are looking at the EGR code, I believe.
This EGR code is a common fault on 104 eng . Search archives for S.B's article on the EGR tube plugging up at the intake feed port of the head.
There is also a part change modification.
Simple test for port clog is to apply vac to egr servo at idle . Shoud run rough if port is clear. No change indicates egr/plug tube diagnoses.
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  #3  
Old 12-29-2001, 11:36 PM
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The photo and link is at the end of Steve's article at http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/EngineControls
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  #4  
Old 12-29-2001, 11:44 PM
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#26 code?

Thanks for the reply.

I also got a #26 code. Any idea what this means?

thanks. Paul S.
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  #5  
Old 12-29-2001, 11:49 PM
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Shift delay switch-over vale.

The tranny delay shift control when the car is cold.
Over by the master brake cyl. Black switch with 2 wire plug and green vac lne.

May be unplugged.
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  #6  
Old 01-05-2002, 02:21 PM
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Talking Progress on Check Engine light problem

I finally found the time (and the courage) to check on the two possible solutions to my check engine light problems. I used to do all the work on my cars when I was in high school and college and had no money, but I've gotten kind of lazy over the years...

The #5 fault code is an EGR valve problem. I had already replaced this, but since the code came up again, I was blaming the light on the wiring harness, but this had already been replaced. Since I had nothing else to blame on this problem I knew I had to find a solution, expecially since I've thrown about $2,000 at this problem.

Thanks to Arthur Dalton's suggestions, I checked out Steve's article, and he commented on a similar problem on a C280. The problem was the hot pipe inlet to the intake manifold was carboned up from PCV (partial crankcase ventilation) vapors. To test, I applied vacum at idle, and the engine idled perfectly, suggesting the port is plugged up. This test took about 30 seconds to perform. I can't believe both the dealer and two independent mechanics missed this.

Regarding the #26 code, I located the shift delay valve next to the master cylinder. It has a black plug with a green wire and black wire leading away from it. I pulled off the green line, blew in and out on it, and sure enough, it is plugged. I dropped off the car at my mechanics last night who charged me a good deal of money to fix the car, and didn't. Needless to say, he's performing this for free! After all, I explained to him that he should be paying me as a consultant for his ongoing education.
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  #7  
Old 01-05-2002, 02:58 PM
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Congrats and finding the info to be of help and thanks for the note of appreciation. [ in behalf of all]
This forum can and has saved Benz owners thousands of $$$$$$$ and is an asset to all !
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  #8  
Old 01-11-2002, 09:48 PM
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Just an update on the repair.

I got the car back from the mechanic, and he performed the cleaning procedure on the hot inlet pipe to the intake manifold. It actually was pcv vapors leaving behind carbon that plugged up the pipe.

When I got the car back home in the garage, I unplugged the green vacuum line. Sprayed some brake cleaner in there and blew the heck out of it with my air hose. It's a very small diameter hose and hard to clean it out. When I blasted it with the air hose, brake cleaner sprayed everywhere and the hose flew out of my hand across the garage floor.

I then pulled the plastic off the gauge cluster and had a terrible time trying to put the bulb for the check engine light back on. Must have spend 2 hours. I finally used some tongs from the kitchen, like the kind you use when your frying chicken, and put on disposable rubber gloves over the end of the tongs - like the kind your proctologist uses when he says "bend over and grab the table!".

My only regret is that I kind of put some minor scratches to the black trim around the ac vent to the right of the gauge cluster.

I touched it up with a black sharpee pen and it basically covered up the scratches.

It's been a whole week and the light hasn't come back on yet!

I find myself continually staring at the check engine light, though, waiting for it to come on while I'm driving, and I'm afraid I'm going to rear-end someone driving back and forth to work!
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2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".
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  #9  
Old 01-12-2002, 12:38 AM
Mattman
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lol - you must be relieved though that the repairs were relatively minor. There is nothing worse than having a non impacting fault that you can see all the time.

Matt.
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  #10  
Old 01-17-2002, 05:43 PM
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Update of check engine light

The check engine light came back on yesterday.

Even after I addressed both problems, the d*** light came back on.

Oh, Lord, please have mercy on my poor soul.

I think I'll start a poll. It may go something like this:

Paul has a check engine light that won't stop coming on. After spending over $2,000 hand over fist to prevent one stupid emissions related idiot light from coming on, he should now:

A. Take a sledge hammer and beat the car.
B. Take a sledge hammer and beat himself over the head.
C. Go ahead and remove the idiot light one more time and pretend like it's not even on.
D. Take it to the dealer and see what they say.

I don't know what codes popped up this time. I'm going to wait a week or so to allow me some time to regain my composure.

I really don't know if I should continue to throw money at this problem. Both independent mechanics say there is nothing wrong with the car, no reason for the light to come on. They think that there are some MB's where the light comes on inexplicably. My pefectionist / anal retentive / obsessive compulsive nature tells my this is a cop-out.

Any ideas?????
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2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".
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  #11  
Old 01-17-2002, 05:58 PM
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Paul,

Sorry I don't have any additional ideas beyond what you've tried. I just wanted to add that you won't be able to pass your next smog test with the bulb out or with the light on. I don't think you have a choice other than to keep on pursuing it.

Has anyone stuck an old fashioned sniffer in the tailpipe to see if there are any emissions measurements obviously out of spec?
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  #12  
Old 01-17-2002, 06:10 PM
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I recommend you just pull the codes . Your car has the led/sw diagnostic box, so it does not have to go to the dealer to get them.
I can see your frustration, but remember there are 28 different emmision related codes that will trip that CE lamp, so you may have a completely different code than previous problems.
Post us what you come up with for codes.
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  #13  
Old 01-20-2002, 01:23 AM
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The continuing saga of the Check Engine Light

By searching the discussion forum, I learned that by pressing the button for 3 seconds (with the engine off and the ignition in the on position) and releasing, you count the number of flashes for the fault code.

I got 26 flashes, which would be the same code as last time, the upshift delay valve.

I determined that the green vacuum line was plugged, so I unplugged it, and replaced the switch (a $30.00 part).

Why would the code come back on?

I know that the upshift delay valve is working because it does keep my transmission from shifting into high gear when cold.

The only thing I can come up with is possibly the switch is not getting enough vacuum to work.

Does this make any sense?

I then cleared the code by pressing the button for 8 seconds and then releasing. The Check Engine light is now off.
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Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".
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  #14  
Old 03-19-2002, 08:51 PM
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I just wanted to memorialize for posterity that it is now March 19, and the check engine light hasn't come back on.

My only conjecture on why the fault code came back on for a faulty transmission up shift delay valve after replacing the part is that the fault code was still stored in memory from before the repair.

In any event, I consider case closed on all check engine light problems (knocking on wood).
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Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".

Last edited by suginami; 03-19-2002 at 09:12 PM.
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  #15  
Old 03-20-2002, 10:17 AM
moedip
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Persistence and a logical mind has cured more ills than impatience and frustration. Congratulations!!!
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